Sydneykid Your A Legend

[salad]

you can take the info to any place that does wheel alignments and they will get it as close to these specs as possible.

im guessin that you dont have any camber and castor adjustment on the front so they will not be able to do anything about this, there is a little camber adjustment on the back

to get to these specs you will need camber and castor kits

[EKSMUD]

thx for the info

[Kennedy]

SK. Would reccomend similar settings for an R33 with JIC coilovers with jap super hard springs coupled with a front strut bar?

I have 17's 235/255's

Cheers,

[Sydneykid]

SK. Would reccomend similar settings for an R33 with JIC coilovers with jap super hard springs coupled with a front strut bar?

I have 17's 235/255's

Cheers,

Try the same settings and monitor the tyre temperatures on the track and the tread wear on the road.

Cheers

[N1GTR]

It looks like the R32 GTR Whiteline Groupbuy pics have disappeared

Im trying to find the best setup for my R32 GTR aswel

Currently

-1 camber front

-2 camber rear (which is quite bad)

-TEIN suspension

Not sure of the other values, they have been fiddled with, but i cant remember them

I was thinking of going with 3 degrees neg on the front and 1 degree neg rear, but im really unsure about TOE settings etc

The car is hardly driven on the streets and is mainly used for track use and hillclimb styyle things so i dont care about tyres lasting as long as a normal road car, the car sometimes understeers, but this isnt very often - it seems to happen when i really dont want it to do it

If anyone can help id appreciate it

[Kennedy]

I was thinking of going with 3 degrees neg on the front and 1 degree neg rear, but im really unsure about TOE settings etc

I would leave toe nuetral at the front. I would only really use toe out as a last resort to gain more steering. It certainly wouldnt fix understeer.

-3 deg camber at the front is alot. Whats your tyre wear like at the track? Are they wearing towards one side more than the other? If so then camber it till you get even tyre wear methinks. Best camber setting is when you have even tyre wear/most of the tyre contacting with the road. More contact = More Grip.

Castor in the rear can help with steering. I'm sure SK can elaborate more.

[Beer Baron]

i dont think you can really adjust rear caster kennedy.

I am about to get another alignment tomorrow.

going for:

front camber: 2.5 deg

front caster: max

front toe: 0.5mm out each side (i like it a bit 'pointy') or maybe no toe out undecided yet

rear camber: 1 deg

rear toe: zero or possibly 1mm each side toe in also undecided yet

front sway bar: medium (mine is the 3 hole type)

rear sway bar: hard (also 3 hole type)

i'm running 32 GTR with 17X9 inch 33 GTR wheels. running Advan A048s.

alingment/suspension parts are:

front adjustable upper arms

front caster rods

tomei lock kit

whiteline adjustable bars front and rear

bilstein coil-overs with eibach springs

strut braces front and rear

cusco roll cage

car use is 80% street 20% track. Tyre wear is not a major concern but no sense in needlessly wearing them our for no good reason. Not worried really about the ride qual on street though.

actually I'm going to start a new thread with this. I just spent 10 mins trying to find a good thread with R32 GTR set-up settings but went no where.

[N1GTR]

I would leave toe nuetral at the front. I would only really use toe out as a last resort to gain more steering. It certainly wouldnt fix understeer.

-3 deg camber at the front is alot. Whats your tyre wear like at the track? Are they wearing towards one side more than the other? If so then camber it till you get even tyre wear methinks. Best camber setting is when you have even tyre wear/most of the tyre contacting with the road. More contact = More Grip.

Castor in the rear can help with steering. I'm sure SK can elaborate more.

At the moment the rears have worn down to belts on one side, but the other side is as new, they were rubbish tyres though so i never really cared enough to fix the problem and always put it off

The fronts currently are wearing very evenly though

[djr81]

Im trying to find the best setup for my R32 GTR aswel

Currently

-1 camber front

-2 camber rear (which is quite bad)

-TEIN suspension

Not sure of the other values, they have been fiddled with, but i cant remember them

I was thinking of going with 3 degrees neg on the front and 1 degree neg rear, but im really unsure about TOE settings etc

The car is hardly driven on the streets and is mainly used for track use and hillclimb styyle things so i dont care about tyres lasting as long as a normal road car, the car sometimes understeers, but this isnt very often - it seems to happen when i really dont want it to do it

If anyone can help id appreciate it

32GTR's love lots of -ve camber on the front end. Out of interest what are your ride heights?

I use zero toe on the front of my 32 (Would use toe out but for the road trips I have to do) & a total of 1mm at the rear. Front caster is only a little more than stock.

Question: How is the turn in grip relative to the mid corner grip? Mine turns in much better than it grips across the apex, but I am slowly balancing it out - something more -ve camber on the front helped with alot.

[N1GTR]

i dont think you can really adjust rear caster kennedy.

I am about to get another alignment tomorrow.

going for:

front camber: 2.5 deg

front caster: max

front toe: 0.5mm out each side (i like it a bit 'pointy') or maybe no toe out undecided yet

rear camber: 1 deg

rear toe: zero or possibly 1mm each side toe in also undecided yet

front sway bar: medium (mine is the 3 hole type)

rear sway bar: hard (also 3 hole type)

i'm running 32 GTR with 17X9 inch 33 GTR wheels. running Advan A048s.

alingment/suspension parts are:

front adjustable upper arms

front caster rods

tomei lock kit

whiteline adjustable bars front and rear

bilstein coil-overs with eibach springs

strut braces front and rear

cusco roll cage

car use is 80% street 20% track. Tyre wear is not a major concern but no sense in needlessly wearing them our for no good reason. Not worried really about the ride qual on street though.

actually I'm going to start a new thread with this. I just spent 10 mins trying to find a good thread with R32 GTR set-up settings but went no where.

Which sway bars have you got?

Other than adj camber arms and bilstein coilovers what else is in there that will make a difference?

[N1GTR]

32GTR's love lots of -ve camber on the front end. Out of interest what are your ride heights?

I use zero toe on the front of my 32 (Would use toe out but for the road trips I have to do) & a total of 1mm at the rear. Front caster is only a little more than stock.

Question: How is the turn in grip relative to the mid corner grip? Mine turns in much better than it grips across the apex, but I am slowly balancing it out - something more -ve camber on the front helped with alot.

My ride height isnt very good, the front pipes seem to bounce on every speed hump i do at anything more than a "slow crawl"

Id say its about 2 inches lower from when i had OEM suspension to now

[djr81]

My ride height isnt very good, the front pipes seem to bounce on every speed hump i do at anything more than a "slow crawl"

Id say its about 2 inches lower from when i had OEM suspension to now

It does seem to have a fairly strong effect - atleast the differential front to rear does anyway. I am raising the front ride height by 5mm next to see if it balances the car a bit better.

[N1GTR]

It does seem to have a fairly strong effect - atleast the differential front to rear does anyway. I am raising the front ride height by 5mm next to see if it balances the car a bit better.

Mine was REALLY low until it was discovered the reason i snapped so many cv/driveshafts was a broken engine mount, but after that was fixed it went up a cm or so (hard to tell exactly)

[djr81]

i dont think you can really adjust rear caster kennedy.

I am about to get another alignment tomorrow.

going for:

front camber: 2.5 deg

front caster: max

front toe: 0.5mm out each side (i like it a bit 'pointy') or maybe no toe out undecided yet

rear camber: 1 deg

rear toe: zero or possibly 1mm each side toe in also undecided yet

front sway bar: medium (mine is the 3 hole type)

rear sway bar: hard (also 3 hole type)

i'm running 32 GTR with 17X9 inch 33 GTR wheels. running Advan A048s.

alingment/suspension parts are:

front adjustable upper arms

front caster rods

tomei lock kit

whiteline adjustable bars front and rear

bilstein coil-overs with eibach springs

strut braces front and rear

cusco roll cage

car use is 80% street 20% track. Tyre wear is not a major concern but no sense in needlessly wearing them our for no good reason. Not worried really about the ride qual on street though.

actually I'm going to start a new thread with this. I just spent 10 mins trying to find a good thread with R32 GTR set-up settings but went no where.

How about something like this, Baron?

Car Make/Model: R32 GT-R

Front:

Spring type:

Spring rate:

Damper:

Anti roll bar type:

Anti roll bar size/setting:

Ride height*:

Tyre size:

Tyre brand:

Camber:

Caster:

Rose joint or bush:

Toe in (Total):

Rear:

Spring Type:

Spring Rate:

Damper

Anti roll bar type/size:

Anti roll bar size/setting:

Ride height*:

Tyre size:

Tyre brand:

Camber:

Toe in (Total):

HICAS functional Y/N:

Intent: eg 100% track use, to 100% street use.

Comments (eg any compromises you have to have because of whatever reason…. Eg can’t run any lower ride height because the tyres scrape the guards)

Handling characteristics:

Turn in:

Mid corner:

Corner exit:

Changes:

Have you made any changes to the suspension setup & what if any effects have you notice?:

Note: Photos of the car cornering or logged data will also be well regarded!

*From centre of wheel to underside of guard

Edited August 17, 2006 by djr81

[N1GTR]

How about something like this, Baron?

Car Make/Model: R32 GT-R

Front:

Spring type:

Spring rate:

Damper:

Anti roll bar type:

Anti roll bar size/setting:

Ride height*:

Tyre size:

Tyre brand:

Camber:

Caster:

Rose joint or bush:

Toe in (Total):

Rear:

Spring Type:

Spring Rate:

Damper

Anti roll bar type/size:

Anti roll bar size/setting:

Ride height*:

Tyre size:

Tyre brand:

Camber:

Toe in (Total):

HICAS functional Y/N:

Intent: eg 100% track use, to 100% street use.

Comments (eg any compromises you have to have because of whatever reason…. Eg can’t run any lower ride height because the tyres scrape the guards)

Handling characteristics:

Turn in:

Mid corner:

Corner exit:

Changes:

Have you made any changes to the suspension setup & what if any effects have you notice?:

Note: Photos of the car cornering or logged data will also be well regarded!

*From centre of wheel to underside of guard

That seems good

[Beer Baron]

yeah that would help, think I've got most of that.

steve, sway bars are whiteline as posted above

not sure what exactly you meant by "Other than adj camber arms and bilstein coilovers what else is in there that will make a difference?"

do you mean what else can i change to make a difference? of what else have i done to improve handling? if it's the latter then the answer is:

front adjustable upper arms (for camber)

front caster rods (for caster)

tomei lock kit

whiteline adjustable sway bars front and rear

bilstein coil-overs with eibach springs

strut braces front and rear

cusco roll cage

Yokohama Advan A048 tyres (235/45/17)

Nissan R33 GTR wheels (17X9 +30 offset)

as for what else can I do? well I haven't really done much in the way of rear end alignment parts. So I could use a set of adjustable upper arms and 'traction rods' at the rear. I have a set of noltec subframe bushes to go in shortly, and may fit some pinaples on them too. then i'm down to attessa mods/controllers.

[N1GTR]

Yeah i meant the front castor rods etc

cheers

[Sydneykid]

It is something I say often, but always need to repeat it. Ride height is VERY important on a Skyline, even MORE so on a GTR. Remember, low is slow.

So any set of alignment numbers need to include the ride height, otherwise they are basically useless. Centre of wheel to guard is the accepted standard, that way it doesn’t matter what size wheels of tyres you have, it is always comparable from car to car.

I reckon 80% of the time mid corner understeer in GTR’s is caused by too low ride height. It’s the first thing I measure. Don’t fall into the trap of believing that toe out only works on turn in. If they are too low they bump steer to toe in. GTR’s do drive the front wheels, so corner exit understeer is also affected by the front toe alignment.

As for camber settings, if you don’t already have a pyrometer, spend $150, buy one and tune the camber via the tyre temperatures. Any other method is guesswork.

If your GTR is still understeering (mid corner or exit) and you have the front ride height at 355 mm or more, the caster is set at max, some toe out (2 mm each side or so), lots of rear anti roll, minimum front anti roll, 2.5 to 3.5 degrees of front camber…….then your front spring rate or your front shock bump rate is too high. Playing with the other settings WON’T fix that, soften the spring rate and/or adjust the shock bump rate is the RIGHT answer.

cheers

[Beer Baron]

It is something I say often, but always need to repeat it. Ride height is VERY important on a Skyline, even MORE so on a GTR. Remember, low is slow.

So any set of alignment numbers need to include the ride height, otherwise they are basically useless. Centre of wheel to guard is the accepted standard, that way it doesn’t matter what size wheels of tyres you have, it is always comparable from car to car.

I reckon 80% of the time mid corner understeer in GTR’s is caused by too low ride height. It’s the first thing I measure. Don’t fall into the trap of believing that toe out only works on turn in. If they are too low they bump steer to toe in. GTR’s do drive the front wheels, so corner exit understeer is also affected by the front toe alignment.

As for camber settings, if you don’t already have a pyrometer, spend $150, buy one and tune the camber via the tyre temperatures. Any other method is guesswork.

If your GTR is still understeering (mid corner or exit) and you have the front ride height at 355 mm or more, the caster is set at max, some toe out (2 mm each side or so), lots of rear anti roll, minimum front anti roll, 2.5 to 3.5 degrees of front camber…….then your front spring rate or your front shock bump rate is too high. Playing with the other settings WON’T fix that, soften the spring rate and/or adjust the shock bump rate is the RIGHT answer.

cheers

Thanks Gary, I will post the ride height in a min. Dont have a proper pyrometer but do have an infrared heat gun thermometer which is pretty good. Reads to about 400deg C from memory. And I do use it to check temps across the face of the tyre, and the temperature of my friends wang/forhead/girlfriends nipple etc. It's a very usefull tool.

I will do as you suggest and start with the height. Taking the car to heasmans first thing tomorrow so Paul will hopefully be able to ad some of his own advice to all this.

[N1GTR]

So any set of alignment numbers need to include the ride height, otherwise they are basically useless. Centre of wheel to guard is the accepted standard, that way it doesn’t matter what size wheels of tyres you have, it is always comparable from car to car.

Ill get this number tommorrow from the car, i assume its taken straight up from the centre of the wheel?

thanks