Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well last night i went to leave for work and got about 20 metres down the road and couldn't see out my rear view mirror from all the WHITE smoke so naturally i quickly pulled a u-turn and put the car in the garage and took the girlie's car to work as i was running late as it was!

Now i'd just put a new catch can on that i'd made and i just presume i didn't vent it properly (was trying to make it legal) which caused this mess!

Now this morning i put my old catch can back on which is vented with a filter and a few small 1/8 holes! I took it for a drive and it was still smoking but not quite as bad! I'm hoping this is just oil that was still in the exhaust etc burning off??? i pulled back into the garage and there was oily smoke coming from the engine bay (mainly around the turbo, can see slight oil marks/stains where the dump pipe meets the exhaust housing) and exhaust!

Basically have i stuffed something (can't see how?) or do i just need to vent my new catch can and wait for the oil to get out the system? I was reading somewhere that its illegal to have a 'venting' catch can but if you don't vent it properly does this problem i'm having happen or have i made it or hooked it up wrong?

Cheers in advance!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127654-urgent-help-please/
Share on other sites

Have done this a few times as well and it seems to clear up fairly quickly and I dont think it will be damaged. :(

Probably idle it off in the driveway as some mongrel will see the smoke if your on the road and dob you in to EPA.

Your breather should by rights vent back into the airbox intake.

I had the same problem, the catch can has a breather in the system... should work ok, are you still getting oil smoke? You may of damaged the oil seal on the turbo? Go have a look at your intercooler, you should find oil deposits in there! Clean it out with metho/kero (ie drain it n empty until it runs clean, DONT tip the cooler upside down as the oil will run through it lol) and clean the pipes out then go for a hard drive to burn any oil sitting in the zorst and have another look to see if that helps, personally im still abit stuck with it all but im tryin the cooler cleaning next week.

I had the same problem, the catch can has a breather in the system... should work ok, are you still getting oil smoke? You may of damaged the oil seal on the turbo? Go have a look at your intercooler, you should find oil deposits in there! Clean it out with metho/kero (ie drain it n empty until it runs clean, DONT tip the cooler upside down as the oil will run through it lol) and clean the pipes out then go for a hard drive to burn any oil sitting in the zorst and have another look to see if that helps, personally im still abit stuck with it all but im tryin the cooler cleaning next week.

i hope its not the turbo cause i've been through that with my old turbo and my new 35/40 is only 2000kms old so it better not be that!, i'm 99% certain its the catch can because it only happened when i installed the new catch can!

The catch can needs to vent to atmo or somewhere...crankcase pressure will build up and bad breath will come out somewhere else. Std breather goes back into intake pipe so instead just put a little filter off a hose tail on your catch can somewhere and let it breath off that.

The catch can needs to vent to atmo or somewhere...crankcase pressure will build up and bad breath will come out somewhere else. Std breather goes back into intake pipe so instead just put a little filter off a hose tail on your catch can somewhere and let it breath off that.

this is what i thought but i heard that venting into the atmosphere is illegal with catch cans? I have my old catch can back on (the one in the pic which vents via a filter!) It seems to be fine, just getting all the oil out the system now is the pain staking part. Mind you it is still blowing a bit of smoke but nowhere near as much!

Edited by mr_rbman

just took it for a quick hard drive and it only smokes a tiny bit driving normally but when it hits boost the smoke is much worse! To me that sounds like the turbo but considering its new and i changed the catch can and all this happened i'm still lenaing towards the catch can being the source of the problem???????????????????

just took the cooler off and there's a bit of oil in that which is probably causing the white smoke when the engine hits boost! Currently cleaning it now and will hopefully get it back on tonight fingers crossed!

Latest ZOOM has a great little article regarding crank case pressure and the ins and outs of oil catch cans and oil breather cans.

There was also a thread here recently where someone had a similar issue after putting on a new can and using wrong size hoses.

I think that thread started off saying “hi flow turbo blown” or something (because of the white smoke)

Even after fixing, there was a bit of smoke as the extra pressure had pushed oil past the turbo seals and so forth and was burning in the exhaust for a bit.

Hope that is all you have done and that nothing is broke.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...