Jump to content
SAU Community

Overheating

skylinefan

By skylinefan,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

skylinefan Enthusiast

skylinefan

Posted
Posted

yesterday i changed the upper and lower radiator hoses(very old) the radiator cap and the thermostat.... took it for a drive and thrashed it a little !! but the car still seened to be getting quiet hot ...... and after i unplugged the heat sensor and put it bak in the heat said half in the guage,,,, something is a miss and i just cant figure it out !! sensor? head? and there doesnt seem to be a build up of pressure on the hoses?? me is a little lost .... have i done something wrong ??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/
Share on other sites
skylinefan Enthusiast

skylinefan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Obvious question is did u put the thermostat in the right way and did u get the right one?

Are u using an overflow bottle with the rad?

Is the coolant level stayin constant?

If all ok replace the water temp sensor.

hey thanks for the reply, air flow bottle?

coolant seems to be staying level now, and yes the thermostat is thew correct one and its in the same way the other one came out !! im hopeing it isnt the water pump... could that also be it !! and i was planning on doing the water temp sensor on the weekend.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2359920
Share on other sites
MerlinTheHapyPig Mentor

MerlinTheHapyPig

Posted
Posted

how do you know it's overheating?

The "normal" position on the stock temp gauge will sometimes change when you install a thermostat that opens at a different temperature.

Perhaps get an aftermarket water temp gauge to see where you're actually at more accurately

Anyway, if it's definantly overheating and you've ruled out the thermostat, then it's probably the water pump.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2360072
Share on other sites
skylinefan Enthusiast

skylinefan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
how do you know it's overheating?

The "normal" position on the stock temp gauge will sometimes change when you install a thermostat that opens at a different temperature.

Perhaps get an aftermarket water temp gauge to see where you're actually at more accurately

Anyway, if it's definantly overheating and you've ruled out the thermostat, then it's probably the water pump.

ok, but if it was the water pump wouldnt the car idle differntly? ot would the cur run differently? cause the car still kicks well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2361769
Share on other sites
Rednisr31 Community Regular

Rednisr31

Posted
Posted

it would idle the same

try driving it without the thermostat but of the bearing in the pump is f**ked it fan wont keep running straight, it wont run true to the engine

my mates fan smashed 2 radiators before he fixed his pump, bearing was screwed and the fan moved enough to foul on the radiator (r31 skyline, same shaped pump with more fins inside)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2361934
Share on other sites
skylinefan Enthusiast

skylinefan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Obvious question is did u put the thermostat in the right way and did u get the right one?

Are u using an overflow bottle with the rad?

Is the coolant level stayin constant?

If all ok replace the water temp sensor.

ok the coolant isnt staying constant, it builds up in the overflow, and ends up being like 2 inches hight then it was b4 driving it !! im not driveing iit to the stage of it over heating !! just been taking it on test drives ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2362015
Share on other sites
skylinefan Enthusiast

skylinefan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok further info !! was doing a little more work on the car today !! took it for a drive !! still doesnt seem to be much pressure in the radiator hoses?? car is running fine !1 ideling fine, but AFTER ABOUT 30 MINS OF DRIVEING the heat started to rise !! the overflow keeps filling to the stage where its about to overflow?? im starting to get worried... :teehee: its starting to look like the waterpump i think??

if so how much is a good estimate for the pump and work ?? anyhelp would be benifical

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2365119
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Pumps have been known to rot out the impeller blades because idiot (previous / Japanese) owners don't use proper coolant.

Pump is around $100. Job takes a (leisurely) couple of hours.

You need to remove the radiator, so while it is out, get it thoroughly cleaned.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2365779
Share on other sites
skylinefan Enthusiast

skylinefan

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Pumps have been known to rot out the impeller blades because idiot (previous / Japanese) owners don't use proper coolant.

Pump is around $100. Job takes a (leisurely) couple of hours.

You need to remove the radiator, so while it is out, get it thoroughly cleaned.

cool thanks for that... i think that job is a little passed my knowledge, so i might have to look into getting it done bysomeone....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/127679-overheating/#findComment-2366737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...