Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1992 Nissan Silvia.

90,000 on clock.

8X,XXX on motor when it was put in.

12 Months NSW Rego.

Engine

- RB20DET Conversion

- Engineered

- Top Mount Manifold

- T70 Turbo

- 38mm External Waste Gate

- 3" Turbo Back Exhaust

- Blow Off Valve

- Front Mount Intercooler

- Custom Intercooler Pipe Work

- Custom Plenium

- Silicone Intake Pipe

- NEW Simota Pod Filter

- NEW Bosch 040 Fuel Pump (less then a month old)

- Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator

- NEW Oil Catch Can

Drive Line

- Twin Plate Button Clutch

- Slotted Front Rotors

- New Brake Pads

- Koni Adjustable Shocks (Dampner Adjustable)

- Adora Lowered Springs

- C.I.G. Locked Diff :D

Looks

- Full Wide Body Guards Rear and Vented Front

- Full Custom Respray in Custom made blue with Lylac pearl (Door Sills etc are done)

- Black bonnet and Mirrors

- Bonnet Pins

- Groove 5 Spoke Wheels With Very Good Tyres

- Back Seat Removed and Sub Install Inplace (All Carpeted)

- NEW Smoke Face Gauges In Twin Pillar Pod (Water Temp, Oil Temp)

- NEW Boost and Oil Pressure Guages In Cups On Dash

- Pioneer CD Player

- Sony Xplod Splits

The car also features an Alarm with a key ring pager and also features Remote Engine Start.

The Car also comes with 2 new Vertex Side Skirts and 2 new Wide vented front gaurds, Plus quite alot of RB20 extra parts like a bottom end which was bored out for 50thou oversized forgies, Copper Head gasket, Shot Peened Rods, 2nd power steering pump, 2nd sump, rocker covers, plus lots more. I have lots more stuff i will chuck in as well if the buyer is interested which is just laying around the garage.

Also comes with all items removed such as back seat and seat belts, Removed trimmings, Standard shocks and springs, plus alot more.

$12,500.

For anyone who is interested get in contact with me:

By Calling - 0402 756 302

By Emailing - [email protected]

IMG_0149.jpg

IMG_0155.jpg

Edited by osiris23

Price Reduction - $12,500

As said it has lots of extra RB20 parts included such as the bottom end which has been bored out and used to run 50thou oversized forgies. also got the copper head gasket, Got a turbo timer and performance meter which goes with it as well. Brand new guages in the cabin, 2 sets of front wide gaurds, vertex side skirts, plus heaps more extras i have like extra tie rod ends, control arms etc etc.

If your interested give me a call 0402 756 302.

Someone buy this and finish what i started. :no:

Fullkit, fat wheels under it, aftermarket computer and injectors and you'll have a leather combination. :happy:

If your interested in coming and having a look at the car im located at Ulladulla which is on the NSW South Coast about 2½ hours from sydney.

  • 2 weeks later...

i just remembered someone who was looking at the car rekons it has an larger throttle body on it. i have no idea my self though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...