Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 91
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

anjoO,

Just add the two together and thats the total ($410 for pipe and $360 for cat =$770)

Xizor,

the split dump & front pipe will give you more power over the cat, so go for this instead if youhave to chose.

SS8_Gohan,

There may be another GB in the future depending on interest.

cheers guys

Yeah i have to choose. I'll take the split/dump pipe pending a quick bit of research today that i should get that first instead of CAT. How quick/easy is it to install?

Edited by Xizor

many people have installed the pipe themselvers, its mainly just bolts. some are harder to get to, but if you couldnt be stuffed, an exhaust place should do it in an hour.

anjoO,

i forgot you had the R34 GTT and not the R32/R33 GTST, its a total of $770 because the R34 pipe is $410 not $380.

cheers

batmbl if possible do u think i could pay u next week say the 10th or 11th?

this week im spending around 2.5k on my car and wont have more untill next week. i can use my credit card i guess but i prefer is possible to pay u next week. if its not possible thats fine....ill just pay u this week. guess im just asking for a favour....

let me know...cheers

SS8_Gohan,

the only way i can take credit card is through paypal, but they charge high fees for that type of amount, so if you really want to do it this way, you would need to transfer $390 to [email protected] on the paypal website or if you are unsure how to do this i can send you an email link for direct payment.

cheers

am i understanding it right, in that there is no NUMBER limit for this group buy, but just a time limit... as in payment by 4th august?

there was going to be a number limit but there has been enough pipes made to account for the current amount of people in the GB. if you want to be part of it i can put you in the list, but its ending in a couple of days.

Can all those who expressed interest and havent PM'd me for payment details please do this today, as payment needs to be made asap. Also, if you wish to back out, please send me a PM by end of today.

cheers

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...