Jump to content
SAU Community

Heater Hoses, Radiator Hoses

gtst25

By gtst25,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

We all have to realise that we're (most of us) are driving 10+ year old lines now and are getting to that magic mark where you'll be driving along on a hot summer's day and blow one of those pesky heater hoses around the back.

Not realy good as if you lose your coolant that quickly you probably won't know about it as your temp sender won't tell you that your engine's cooking - it can't if it has no coolant to measure!

Just wondering if anyone here has changes the whole lot - not just the easy radiator hoses - the whole lot and where they purchased them all and how much???? I haven't looked for awhile and my r33 series 1 is due for the whole lot.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128237-heater-hoses-radiator-hoses/
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Justjap has silicone jobbies for about $140 for both the main radiator ones.

Nissan has them too, but the prices are expensive.. few week from japan for some hoses, etc. Nissan still is your best bet though, as most are custom bends and generic hoses won't really work for that. I bought a couple of small breather hoses, and they were like $30 each shipped from japan.

Nissan quoted me $90 about each piece x 4 for the heater hoses on the back of an rb25

To save money, it's just mix and match with other aussie sold nissans or other cars... but it's painful process. There is no real cheap way to get them all replaced, but if you want to spend some money it's definitely worthwhile.

arep3 Experienced

arep3

Posted
Posted

want some great news??? it cost me $300 to get just 2 hoses at the back of the motor replaced. :D the mechanic did all of it for me though. sourced the hoses and fitted them. he needed to drop the gearbox to get to them. i was urgently needing to replace them as i had coolant running all over the starter motor and gearbox. i reckon its worth doing it just for the peace of mind factor.

RNGTR Rising Star

RNGTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ive replaced the lot on my GTR, all bought new from Nissan cost was about $300 all up from memory. A good mate replaced them all for me 'cept one or two we simply couldnt get to. these were done when the engine was pulled for a rebuild a little over a year later.

Edited by RNGTR
gtst25 Proficient

gtst25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cheers fellas,

Reminds me of my silvia days - I pulled all the heater hoses off, went to repco and managed to find that some vn and holden camira ones fitted fine once trimmed. What a bastard of a job - have to do it sometime though as I'd hate one to blow.

When I do it I'll post up which hoses fit from which car.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...