Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Done. $110 for front two and tailgate. match is the right darkness, but yes the colour is slightly greenish, as opposed to matt black. Charlie and tint-mart does have experience with matching it, also being a spraypainter by trade.

You know how when mixing paint you can cancel out colour tinges? well, by using a slightly coloured tint, you can actually cancel out the green/add to the green (depending on how you look at it) to make it black. same as with painting a car, how a hint of silver in the mix will cancel out gold.

we are going to try it out over a few weeks, see how we go.

pics so far -

Looks OK to me, more than acceptable. A straight side on shot without the reflections would be handy.

:woot: cheers ;)

haha i didnt even take one... ill take one though.

.

.

.

and here it is!!post-24895-1154499050.jpg

as you can observe, darkness is right, just kinda greenish... apparently a red/pink (??) could cancel it out, to black.

and its too dark to get photos without reflections!!

Edited by qikstagea
You know how when mixing paint you can cancel out colour tinges? well, by using a slightly coloured tint, you can actually cancel out the green/add to the green (depending on how you look at it) to make it black. same as with painting a car, how a hint of silver in the mix will cancel out gold.

we are going to try it out over a few weeks, see how we go.

I hope you can succeed... we tried every shade/colour variation from SunGuard (we're a SunGuard superstore) that seemed like it would work, but no go. We got pretty close with SunGuard DS 20, but by that stage the front windows were reading 16%, while the rear tinted glass was around 26%... big difference in darkness but a tradeoff of looking *almost* uniform with the rear windows.

The rear hatch doesn't matter so much because of the 'round the corner' thing SydneyKid mentioned.

Rezz would putting a 'green' tinge film on the back windows work to match the front?

Hey qikstagea, I can see you :P

Not really, cos the green would be on the OTHER side of the tint, whereas at the front, the TINT is on the far side. Thats why itll be hard to do. Its NEVER going to be perfect... but we'll definitely get it closer than it is.

guess its lucky i threw some clothes on to walk out there stageagirl...! like my socks? my fiance came out and got up me for wearing white socks on wet grass lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...