Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a 3" cat back kakimoto exhaust. I am looking at getting either a bigger cat of split front dump pipe. I cant afford both at the same time. So, which should i get first. I am leaning towards the cat as its much easier to install, but am intersted to know more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128389-bigger-car-or-front-splitdump-pipe/
Share on other sites

I say save up more money and do both at the same time. I just find jacking up the car somuch of a hassle. Then you have to undo the tight exhaust bolts.

well, that's what I did anyways. Did it all at once and never looked back.

Keep in mind, that the dump/front pipe might be a tiny bit longer or shorter or in the wrong place. so it might require fiddling and stuff. Mine required the cat to be modified.

so do it together.

Mate dont f**kin start me on this money crap lol. Spending money is how i deal with personal life being f**ked.

LOL - sound like me.

why do you "need" a split dump pipe?

looked into a simple turbo to cat-converter 3inch stainless pipe, and a 3inch highflow cat-converter? this combo would be less in cost (at the most, equal in cost) then a split dump pipe on its own.

JustJap 3inch stainless steel dump pipe (turbo to catconverter) = ~$220 + $20 delivery

3inch highflow cat-converter = ~$150 + delivery

both the above can be found on ebay, lol

I did my cat today with one of BATML's small body cats on a RB20DET. The amount of carbon and crap that was in the inlet of the original cat was amazing. There was atleast a half centermeter of crap embedded on the pipe plus all the crap that was clogging up the mesh.

There wasn't a huge difference in power (but noticable) but the car was alot smoother without so much restriction in the exhaust.

Dump pipe is next to go on :D

Also, do it yourself! Its only 4 bolts ffs

It took me about 2 hours of screwing around. The main problem was the cat back pulling like a spring toward the back of the car. Made it a bit of a pain the ass to get back together, if I had somone helping it would have been alot easier. I think swearing definately helps it to go on.

Dump pipe will probably be a bit harder. Just get a can of RP7 and a cheap socket set and go nuts ;)

I dont have the tolerance, patience, or desire to do any f**king around on the car myself at the moment. I'd be more inclined to smash the shit out of it in personal frustration. Dont think i am kidding.

I definitely want the big cat off BATML's group buy, as for front/dump pipe... i dont really care as long as its good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...