Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah, definitely top 2 brands in this post are mothers and meguiars, pretty accurate description of real life i think too, alot of the car enthusiasts i know use those 2 brands.

after i first bought my car i used the autoglym paint restorer, worked wonders on my car, so i think their alright.

personally, im sure any of the better brands (including autoglym) would make good products anyway, so you should be alright, but having used meguiars i will say that it is one of the best products ive used so far.

planning to get the quik clay kit in a few weeks next time i have enough time to do a big clean up on my car :D v. excited

The way i see it is Mothers > Autoglym > Meguiars, these are just entry level off the shelf products, there's a whole level of products above them

Autoglym have a sealant aswell called 'Extra Gloss Protection', use that after applying your polish/wax so the shine will last a bit longer. You shouldn't have to polish every month, every 2-3 months should be fine. The once a year polishes are for better brands that you apply using a random orbital (RO)

Definately get a hold of a clay bar, just get Meguairs Quik Clay, the process would follow; wash, dry, clay, wash, polish/wax, seal (Autoglym Extra Gloss Protection)

Get a hold of a few more microfibre towels aswell, try and get ones for different steps so the chemicals dont mix

Just thought I'd put this up, its a detailing clinic held in Sydney in Rozelle by Car Care on the 12th of June, $40 entry and they show you how to properly wash, clay, polish by hand and machine, seal and wax your car

http://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/...ailing_clinic-0

I see that a lot of what I've read so far is in the context of using various Meguiar's or Mother products, I need some advice re Autoglym (because all of my car cleaning stuff is that brand!)

I also have to say that i'd not heard of using a clay bar before reading this thread, I think I'll definitely have to invest in one!

I wash my car once a week with Autoglym Bodywork Shampoo Conditioner, then chamois, then once a month I use Autoglym Deep Shine Polish (Previously Super Resin Polish). Now from what I read on the back of the bottle, it sounds like it is a wax and polish in one? Or would i be better off only polishing once a year like mentioned earlier and buying some sort of Carnuba type wax to use on my weekly wash? Sometimes i wash it a second time if it gets rained on during the week, albeit just a pressure wash and pressure wax with distilled water and a chamois to finish.

When i polished it this week, I noticed that a lot of the roughness on the paint had gone, but there were some visible swirlmarks, which I put down to me only having one microfibre cloth to buff with.

Amidoinitrite?

Edited by squareznboxez

It should be fine with what you have atm, but if you have a dark coloured car, a dedicated wax will really stand out. If you are going to buy a dedicated wax, i'd downgrade back to the Super Resin Polish

EDIT: simply use and layer your current Deep Shine Polish and put about 3 layers of Extra Gloss protection. This will cover most of the swirls and provide a good shine

Edited by squareznboxez

Should of mentioned that it is a black car I'm talking about! Fair enough, I will look into the Extra Gloss protection; due to my car sitting in the elements, I get kind of anal about cleaning the exterior (I previously had a VN SS which was resrpayed, didnt look after it, to cut a long story short, 4 years later I had the paint fading off the bonnet like crazy, and flaking off of the gutters off the roof and near the rear bumper)

Should of mentioned that it is a black car I'm talking about! Fair enough, I will look into the Extra Gloss protection; due to my car sitting in the elements, I get kind of anal about cleaning the exterior (I previously had a VN SS which was resrpayed, didnt look after it, to cut a long story short, 4 years later I had the paint fading off the bonnet like crazy, and flaking off of the gutters off the roof and near the rear bumper)

This is Vid of my other car and its a Commo with 9 year old paint. it lives all its life in the Weather. I have stepped up over the years with several different brands including Megs & Mothers and still use some of there products, just not their Waxes, as I have found others to be superior in durability and cheaper in their use. My Commy and HR31 Coupe now have a Zaino Z2 base with Dodo Juice Supernatural Wax on top. This vid gives and idea of what a top class sealant or wax can do. Oh this is on a well prepped & corrected car. The Zaino give me 12 months protection and the Wax just for bling

th_MVI_3536.jpg

Edited by R31Heaven

They say different technology is used with the NXT range, especially the Ultimate Detailer. I have the NXT wash and NXT Tec Wax. If you're going to use Meguiars brands, use the Soft Wash, Quik Clay, Paint Cleaner, Deep polish and NXT Tec Wax. But if you haven't bought any of them yet, buy Mothers, they're supposed to be much better.

atm i got turtle wax wash/polish, gonna use em up first before i buy anything better :(

got the tech wax from meguiars too

gonna clay car soon and fix the headlight covers.

never really looked at mothers products, will check it out i guess cheers

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
OMFG man!!! That looks perfect!!! Where can I find them???

Glassplexin is the Glare range.

You can find it on the Infinity Auto website or if you want a true pro detailer that realy knows how to work the stuff then see Matt at Dream Machines in S.A. He works some wonders with the Glare range.

PM me if you want his contact details.

Let him know that Dave from Reflect Effect sent ya :(

Edited by Davexr8
Glassplexin is the Glare range.

You can find it on the Infinity Auto website or if you want a true pro detailer that realy knows how to work the stuff then see Matt at Dream Machines in S.A. He works some wonders with the Glare range.

PM me if you want his contact details.

Let him know that Dave from Reflect Effect sent ya :P

Thanx mate! I may need his number later next week, so contact u later~

Has anyone heard of a company (or used them) called "Ultimate paint protection". I've heard of car dealers adding this as an extra with new cars and never really looked into it. After looking at their website it says they essentially coat your car with a layer of teflon that protects your paint from wear and tear. Also has the added benefit of making waxing and polishing uneccessary. All sounds a little too good to be true. Any thoughts?

Yep it is. these contracts have that many cluases in them thats will void any warranty they give in 2 seconds flat. Read all the fine print. you are better off buying a good sealant and do it your self and keep a couple grand in your pockets. As soon as you take your car through a car wash the warranty is void.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I got one of the Meguiar's waxes (can't remember the name but is in a maroon bottle), and it worked really really well, considering the amount of dirt that my car seems to get on it from being parked in the elements etc, it's had 2 pressure washes and I can still see the water beading off the paintwork, so that's quite good IMO.

  • 2 weeks later...

Not sure who recommended it to me, but Autoglym metal polish for removing the dark black stain on the rear of the car (from the exhaust fumes).

It works great, I also used it to remove some other black marks that other soaps simply won't remove, it removed them with ease.

A big thanks to the forum member who recommended it to me.

I just detailed with Final Inspection seal, I'll post some photo's up in the next week or two depending on how good it looks, also used there power wheel cleaner (amazing results on the rims) AND some Autoglym metal polish on the rims...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...