Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Bundybear, however the number doesn't look correct? Looks like yours is 0000210, should be 0002019

Thanks again :ph34r:

Simon

Sorry there Simon I seem to have plain old farked up

this one should be betta (fingerz X'd)

post-68505-1263788477_thumb.jpg

Hi, could you please check hcr32034806?

thanks!

post-68505-1263788795_thumb.jpg

Hope I got that one right 2 hehe

Cheers

:rant: That's cool, thanks for looking it up!! :D

I'll now go and find out what it all means :ermm:

Colour code KH2 :Gunmetal Grey Metallic

MT :Manual Trans

RB26DTT : RB26DETT <=Weird NISSAN thing

HickAss, 4WD

rest is preety easy

no interior colour code ?? does happen sometimes with FAST..

cherrs

Colour code KH2 :Gunmetal Grey Metallic

MT :Manual Trans

RB26DTT : RB26DETT <=Weird NISSAN thing

HickAss, 4WD

rest is preety easy

no interior colour code ?? does happen sometimes with FAST..

cherrs

Thanks, that's great, i was actually interested in what the letters following the model number related to- the RXFSLMZG?

Thanks, that's great, i was actually interested in what the letters following the model number related to- the RXFSLMZG?

not sure bout 32z ( i got a 33, bitch 2 decode) but i'm reasonably sure theres 2 'decode model' thread on SAU somewhere that should let you decode the letters ( they represent different optional extraz )

a quick search should find them

cheers

not sure bout 32z ( i got a 33, bitch 2 decode) but i'm reasonably sure theres 2 'decode model' thread on SAU somewhere that should let you decode the letters ( they represent different optional extraz )

a quick search should find them

cheers

Many thanks :P

and so is BCNR33041615 levelride's

bc210's BNR32003202 (even with BCNR)

in fact only yours work... here it is.. (so you're safe, phew)

I know mine's not a re-birth... If you want, I can post up a pic of the little blue plate on the firewall... Please try 1 more time through FAST... Cheers

seems my version can't lookup anything in the R32/R33 range.

so i'm sure it's problem at my end not any of your car are dodgy.

although look like I should be able to do it as all R32 R33 R34 range are on my FAST dvd.

including V35, V36 and R35

post-328-1264311865_thumb.jpg

I got .. with FAST V3.50

:BC210

post-68505-1264328235_thumb.jpg

:levelride

Sorry dude no go with mine either

What is your model no , the 14 char one, I can do a look up on this instead, may get results

:DemsA31

post-68505-1264328627_thumb.jpg

cheers n beers

BBQ TUE

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • THERE IS NO IAT SENSOR ON ANY SINGLE TURBO RB. And the one on an RB26 is not for "engine control" - it's really too big and too slow and is only used for over-temp alarming (as far as I can tell). Anyway, you don't have one. You want/need one for the Link, then you need to buy one, find a spot for it, and wire it in. You do know that the stock boost solenoid is not capable of "control", right? It is merely on or off, for the low boost (5 psi) and high boost (7psi), which the ECU enforces mostly based on gear. The stock solenoid is not for PWM control and is not plumbed up in a way to provide it. If you want to control boost properly, then you need a proper MAC valve. And yes, you can wire either of them direct to the ECU. Well, I assume you can - I don't know what the boost solenoid pins on the plug and play Link are capable of. They really should be as capable as any normal Link - but seeing as it is plg and play, it might be limited to stock functionality. Read the doco.   You really do just want to plug stuff together without understanding how it works, right? I can't help you there. I don't know the plug types or pinning on half the stuff you're asking about. If I had to do it I would sit down with the wiring diagrams, the car/looms and a multimeter and work out what is what.
    • Light should be a pressure switch, not a sensor.
    • The pressure light likely has a different sender to a pressure gauge, its been too long for me to remember for sure. Just have a look for another sender down near the oil filter. If you are confident in your rewired pressure sender reading correctly, you can be pretty sure it is just the dash light's sender failing, it is a pretty common thing.
    • It would be nice to see the result, but instagram is a click too far
    • That is a series 1 front end (grill, bumper, headlights). I'm not sure if you are trying to confirm if your whole car is series 1 or just the headlights, but the build date and vin# on the plaque in the engine bay would be the best reference for what it was when it left the factory (noting a lot may have changed over the years)
×
×
  • Create New...