Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In that case, you may well still have the auto diff which means lower top speed but quicker acceleration. (like mine) :woot:

Need to try find a couple of R33 brochures I have and put on my magical japanese head for translating some of these questions. :/

Miguelone may be onto something...

Can anyone else break the code???

Edited by Not a Pulsar

can someone do BNR34006208 + show optional extras

and can anyone tell me what the little x's mean in the model code GGJPRWY34Zxxxxx-x

The first x after the Z is not a D, which i haven't seen before on a r34 model code.

Thanks in advance

can someone do BNR34006208 + show optional extras

and can anyone tell me what the little x's mean in the model code GGJPRWY34Zxxxxx-x

The first x after the Z is not a D, which i haven't seen before on a r34 model code.

Thanks in advance

vwxwys.png

Can't help with decoding R34 model codes :/, had a quick look on the net and couldn't find any info unlike with 32's & 33's.

Edit: found something

15yr0m.png

The character after the Z is the destination, As far as I know the only place outside of Japan 34GTR's were sold was the UK and not very many. Could your R have come from the UK?

thanks mate.

I was looking through the workshop manual (thats where that model variation image is from) when i decided to check my model code and that extra Z caught my eye.

It could have come from the UK - anythings possible - i also think a few got sold in NZ too

i'll check out the uk site and see what i can come up with.

mmm could be that. i know the r33 had a cold district specification, so it makes sense that the r34 had one. I don't think i have heated mirrors though

Regardless, the car's in pretty good condition if it came from a snow region.

post-78856-0-17899800-1348211497_thumb.jpg

Thx mate not sure about the model code and what it means RNR32GASLMDB but it says engine RB20DT but it is a DET does that mean orig it wasn't tubo and was fitted later?

What does 4K and the HI . 4WD mean? Prod M/Y 9007 does that mean build date July 1990?

I really do appreciate you taking the time to look it up for me, thx heaps.

fastformyskyline.jpg

Edited by Aljo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...