Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've spent the better part of the day preparing this, I've managed to squish Nissan FAST from 900mb to 800mb using 7-Zip. I've left out American and European bits (GR, GL, ER, EL1, EL2) which saves 600-690mb only leaving in the useful bits which is what we want: Japanese Domestic Market. I had to split it up into 100mb volumes as that is the limit free upload hosts allow. I got Nissan FAST originally from a torrent, and I've scanned it for viruses with clean results. The instructions and Readme's are there, I've also attached them to this post.

Required:

7-Zip, free: http://www.7-zip.org/

800MB of harddrive space to download it

Another 2.2GB to extract the files from the 7zip archives and install Nissan FAST.

Nissan_FAST_Instructions.zip

Hey guys

Ive read thru almost every page and havent seen an answer to questions regarding engine ser #'s. I'm getting the Wolf V500 for my RB26 swap into a 240Z and They need to confirm the model to sell me the correct ecu. So, if anyone can tell me what ser # 064170A came out of ( R32 or R33 ) I'd really appreciate it.There's also the #74243 cast into the block and 05U on both the head and block. Thanks alot.

Edited by Boostmonkey

Sorry about late reply, i didnt get any notification by email when this thread was updated:

post-51527-1229062409_thumb.jpg

Hi

Can you please check BNR32011509

How can I tell if the car has the origional engine, should it share the last section on this number.

Thanks in advance

Hi

Thanks for that, At least I know what month is was made in now. How do I work out what the model code means.

Cheers

Use this link to decode your model code

http://www.users.on.net/~goofyhsk/info/chassis_plate.html

It will help you decode everything except the last 4 letters, L, M, Z, G. The following is what i wrote back on page 39 of this thread about 10 posts down if you want to see my entire post.

I have been doing a lot of searching around on the forums for the answer to what the last letters mean on the model codes for the early model r32 GTR's (L,M,Z and G).

cameronbnr32 and garrysandy the only info i could find for you guys (and any one else wondering) was a post from funkymonkey back in 2004.

From what i read the letters L and M, which occupy Positions 8 + 9 in the model code, are known as VS Sign (VS Options)...

L means it has Projector Headlights

M means it has both climate comtrol + upgraded stereo

Letters Z and G occupy Positions 10 + 11 in the model code and are known as Pack Sign (Package Extras Sign)...

Z Im still not sure what it means but some guys believe it might be to do with the interior trim. RellikZephyr Thought Z = Black Interior Trim.

Cant be confirmed unless funkymonkey or someone else knows for sure what it means.

G from what i found means ABS and a Viscous LSD

Hope that helps a lil.

Hi

Thanks for the quick reply, I just have one question about the first Vin you run for me.

Because the model identification does not have a 7 or 8 in the last 3 digits, is it a V-spec 1

The number is KBNR32RXFSLMZG built 08/90.

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...