Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ppls, ive had a great day! (note massive amounts of sarcasm...)

i thought id check my fluids as i do every few days, and low and behold, oil in my overflow bottle! so i check the radiator cap. yup! oil in there too...

checked the cam oil cap. just nice clean motul. no water.

checked the dipstick. again, nice clean motul. no white crap from water.

checked the power steering fluid. now that was low. real low...

got some of the oil from the overflow bottle on my finger and it smelt like power steering fluid. i checked the 4WD bottle at the back just to make sure it wasnt it and it was fine.

ive almost convinced myself that its the power steering fluid. i just finished flushing out as much of it as i could and topped it up with plain water. the shops are closed so no coolant for me. im off to the mechanics tomorrow.

anybody ever have anything like this??? :no:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128589-what-the/
Share on other sites

its possible that your head gasket is on its way out or there are cracks between the oil galleries and coolant passages.

but im going to say its engine oil as it would be alot more likely then ps fluid.

if you do a compression check i can guarentee it will be decent but its probably the head gasket:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128589-what-the/#findComment-2378501
Share on other sites

ok well its not power steering fluid. its sump oil. doesnt smell like sump oil and there isnt any white residue anywhere...

apart from a head gasket (which the mechanic says it probably isnt) where else could oil get into the coolant?

possibly the housing where the oil filter screws on? apparently theres coolant running thru it.

the motor is stock apart from dumps pods. no extra coolers added. i will be gettin an oil cooler and relocator for the filter. will need the cooler for track use.

so what do ppls reckon it could be??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128589-what-the/#findComment-2380885
Share on other sites

Cracked cyl head , cracked block, head gasket .

You hope it's the head gasket, anything else would be to expensive.

The GTR has the coolant plumbed into a sandwich between the block and the oil filter adaptor, if that has corroded it could be mixing there..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128589-what-the/#findComment-2386036
Share on other sites

The GTR has the coolant plumbed into a sandwich between the block and the oil filter adaptor, if that has corroded it could be mixing there..

yea thats what the mechanic told me. more then likely this then my head. i picked up a good 1 from a wreckers yesterday. it goes back to the mechanics tomorrow. hope this works. fingers crossed. let u all know the outcome

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128589-what-the/#findComment-2386246
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...