Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, I understand this has been covered and believe me I have searched but anything I find, the link is no longer availible...

I want to install my Tomei Hicas lock kit this weekend but the instructions are in ne hon go...

Can someone please point me in the right direction to find english instructions or wiring diagram?

Thanks for your help!!

Todd

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128604-tomei-hicas-lock-kit/
Share on other sites

cool.

this is rhe procedure..

start the engine and WITHIN TEN SECONDS!! turn the steering wheel 1/2 turn LEFT hten RIGHT 5 times then depress the brake pedal 5 times.

this will put hicas into a diagnostic mode.(dont drive it)

it will take a few gos to get it. its hard to do all that whithin 10 seconds lol

when its inttalised the hicass light will flash. turn the wheel left and right asnd you can see the rear turn. use this procedure for inserting the shims into the rear steering rack(they wont fit otherwise)

as far as the electrics go ??????

Thankyou VERY MUCH! This should be in the DIY/FAQ section!

^I think copyright prohibits this.^

Can someone translate this for me? Please Phunky?

post-17300-1155249382.jpg

As the r33 plug looks nothing like the one shown on the PDF doc, Im having trouble choosing which wires to plug into.

post-17300-1155250188.jpg

I fitted the lock washers last night, I used a 12v source to move the rack (those screw are sooo tiny) and wheel aligned today, the light is on but it drives like a normal car with none of that tail waggle that I had to get used to when I first drove it, I prefer it like this and when/if I ever get the wiring colour codes, I will get rid of the light, I want it working as hicas also governs the power steer and hopefully it still comes on if there is a problem (touch wood).

Well after much searching I found this on a site.

post-17300-1155464764.jpg

I am guessing that the signal wires A & B are the wires on the rack that read the movement of the rack, without running out and looking, i know there are 3 wires on that connector, I can get an idea of which is which, I will have a look at it tommorrow and see what happens.

I did it! The pic is a wiring diag of the setup for a R33.

Thanks to all who helped with this Al, Predator, Shane, ColGTSX, Bl4cK32, Sav man and anyone else that I Pmed :rolleyes:

post-17300-1157887202.jpg

Disclaimer: This worked for me it is no guarentee that it will work for anyone else.

  • 4 weeks later...

hey guys

i went with the above post picture

and i got a 96 r33 series 2

i went with the wire harness guide and installed it as pinned out on the harness but either way i look at my harness in the middle section those wires indicated arent on there

in the first picture i have showed the wire which i have spliced into

the second picture is looking at it from other side also indicating how i have wired it

cheers much help is need before my care is running as i dont wanna ruin anything

cheers

post-16562-1157882755.jpg

post-16562-1157883030.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...