Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just put a PFC on a auto r33, and it just works like the standard ecu. Gear changes and kickdown is just like before. Only thing i have done to the auto is a stage 2 valve body and a bigger trans cooler from MV AUTOS.

Wish i had done this before rather than wasting my money on different piggy back computers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128649-another-pfc-working-on-auto-r33/
Share on other sites

hi,

my 2 cents follows. the powerfc (like most ecu's) is a manual only ecu. it does not take into account auto gearbox logic control. there is no techincal way possible that the gear shifting is identicial to the stock ecu. it doesnt have the code logic present to make it so. and even if you think and feel its all cool its putting extra stress on the auto box. im happy for you to have a powerfc, but you should be aware it is putting stress on the box. each gearchange is, as the ignition timing isn't cut.

the powerfc (like most ecu's) will certainly work, the car will drive, it will run etc but it wont take into account shift control. the powerfc should work out of the box on the auto skyline. its no different to the manual skyline (aside from the gearbox and logic control)

Lee,

their was nothing to get it working, all i did was plug it in and do the idle learn stuff.

Paul,

The gearbox logic control for the auto is handled by the auto ecu and not the engine ecu. The only thing the engine ecu does is cut back timing before a gearchange. Now cutting back timing might be a problem with the standard valve body where it tends to slip between gearchanges and generate a lot of heat, but with the upgraded valvebody the shifts are so fast, i dont think they will be a need to cut back timing.

As i said before the shifs are just as they where before, and i am happy to take u out for a quick spin to prove it. (i live in South Morang).

I spoke to the guys at "Creatd" and they said its funny how it works on some r33s and not on others.

One thing i could think of is Nissan has had 7 different ecu's for the auto from 93 to 96, and mine being a 96, maybe the newer versions are less dependent on the auto ecu than the earier ones.

Also about 3-4 years ago this dude i knew put a pfc on his car (which was a 93 r33 with just a catback and nothing else), and it felt very different. Gearchanges where very hard, it used to hold on to a gear for a lot longer and also it took ages to kickdown, so again maybe the ecu version and the standard valvebody played a part in it.

the auto gear logic is inside the ecu on nissan cars. for toyota's its in a seperate ecu, this is why there is the auto powerfc's for toyota (see the jzx100 auto chaser powerfc).

nissan

auto logic inside stock ecu

not present on most aftermarket ecu's

toyota

auto logic present inside external auto eco

a lot of ecu's work with toyota auto

Just put a PFC on a auto r33, and it just works like the standard ecu. Gear changes and kickdown is just like before. Only thing i have done to the auto is a stage 2 valve body and a bigger trans cooler from MV AUTOS.

Wish i had done this before rather than wasting my money on different piggy back computers.

Wait for a week or two, then get back to us. The more power you have the quicker you will notice.

Paul,

The gearbox logic control for the auto is handled by the auto ecu and not the engine ecu. The only thing the engine ecu does is cut back timing before a gearchange. Now cutting back timing might be a problem with the standard valve body where it tends to slip between gearchanges and generate a lot of heat, but with the upgraded valvebody the shifts are so fast, i dont think they will be a need to cut back timing.

As i said before the shifs are just as they where before, and i am happy to take u out for a quick spin to prove it. (i live in South Morang).

I spoke to the guys at "Creatd" and they said its funny how it works on some r33s and not on others.

One thing i could think of is Nissan has had 7 different ecu's for the auto from 93 to 96, and mine being a 96, maybe the newer versions are less dependent on the auto ecu than the earier ones.

Also about 3-4 years ago this dude i knew put a pfc on his car (which was a 93 r33 with just a catback and nothing else), and it felt very different. Gearchanges where very hard, it used to hold on to a gear for a lot longer and also it took ages to kickdown, so again maybe the ecu version and the standard valvebody played a part in it.

I have found ZERO difference in shift logic ignition retard and cut between models.

It doesn't "work" on all models. I have driven 10 or so Skyines autos supposedly "working" with aftermarket ECUs'. Not one of them had even remotely close to satisfactory gearchange smoothness or provided any protection for the gearbox at the time of the gearchange.

If you are going to use the Power FC to tune for any decent sort of power increase you will come to quickly realise what that means. As I said above, please keep us in the loop.

:D cheers :P

Paul,

The r33 autos have two ecus, the one on the left is the engine ecu(same place as manual) and than on the right hand kick panel is the auto ecu.

Geoff,

If u are the dude with the purple gtr around the lakes area, we have past each other a few times. Mine is the black s2. I am happy to let u take it out for a spin, car is at "Creatd" now getting a few things done, u are well come to go there and take it out for a spin.

Sydneykid,

Their are at least 2 r33's on this forum that have been using the pfc for well over a year, with the same setup as mine and roughly the same power as mine (>220rwkw)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...