Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just put a PFC on a auto r33, and it just works like the standard ecu. Gear changes and kickdown is just like before. Only thing i have done to the auto is a stage 2 valve body and a bigger trans cooler from MV AUTOS.

Wish i had done this before rather than wasting my money on different piggy back computers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128649-another-pfc-working-on-auto-r33/
Share on other sites

hi,

my 2 cents follows. the powerfc (like most ecu's) is a manual only ecu. it does not take into account auto gearbox logic control. there is no techincal way possible that the gear shifting is identicial to the stock ecu. it doesnt have the code logic present to make it so. and even if you think and feel its all cool its putting extra stress on the auto box. im happy for you to have a powerfc, but you should be aware it is putting stress on the box. each gearchange is, as the ignition timing isn't cut.

the powerfc (like most ecu's) will certainly work, the car will drive, it will run etc but it wont take into account shift control. the powerfc should work out of the box on the auto skyline. its no different to the manual skyline (aside from the gearbox and logic control)

Lee,

their was nothing to get it working, all i did was plug it in and do the idle learn stuff.

Paul,

The gearbox logic control for the auto is handled by the auto ecu and not the engine ecu. The only thing the engine ecu does is cut back timing before a gearchange. Now cutting back timing might be a problem with the standard valve body where it tends to slip between gearchanges and generate a lot of heat, but with the upgraded valvebody the shifts are so fast, i dont think they will be a need to cut back timing.

As i said before the shifs are just as they where before, and i am happy to take u out for a quick spin to prove it. (i live in South Morang).

I spoke to the guys at "Creatd" and they said its funny how it works on some r33s and not on others.

One thing i could think of is Nissan has had 7 different ecu's for the auto from 93 to 96, and mine being a 96, maybe the newer versions are less dependent on the auto ecu than the earier ones.

Also about 3-4 years ago this dude i knew put a pfc on his car (which was a 93 r33 with just a catback and nothing else), and it felt very different. Gearchanges where very hard, it used to hold on to a gear for a lot longer and also it took ages to kickdown, so again maybe the ecu version and the standard valvebody played a part in it.

the auto gear logic is inside the ecu on nissan cars. for toyota's its in a seperate ecu, this is why there is the auto powerfc's for toyota (see the jzx100 auto chaser powerfc).

nissan

auto logic inside stock ecu

not present on most aftermarket ecu's

toyota

auto logic present inside external auto eco

a lot of ecu's work with toyota auto

Just put a PFC on a auto r33, and it just works like the standard ecu. Gear changes and kickdown is just like before. Only thing i have done to the auto is a stage 2 valve body and a bigger trans cooler from MV AUTOS.

Wish i had done this before rather than wasting my money on different piggy back computers.

Wait for a week or two, then get back to us. The more power you have the quicker you will notice.

Paul,

The gearbox logic control for the auto is handled by the auto ecu and not the engine ecu. The only thing the engine ecu does is cut back timing before a gearchange. Now cutting back timing might be a problem with the standard valve body where it tends to slip between gearchanges and generate a lot of heat, but with the upgraded valvebody the shifts are so fast, i dont think they will be a need to cut back timing.

As i said before the shifs are just as they where before, and i am happy to take u out for a quick spin to prove it. (i live in South Morang).

I spoke to the guys at "Creatd" and they said its funny how it works on some r33s and not on others.

One thing i could think of is Nissan has had 7 different ecu's for the auto from 93 to 96, and mine being a 96, maybe the newer versions are less dependent on the auto ecu than the earier ones.

Also about 3-4 years ago this dude i knew put a pfc on his car (which was a 93 r33 with just a catback and nothing else), and it felt very different. Gearchanges where very hard, it used to hold on to a gear for a lot longer and also it took ages to kickdown, so again maybe the ecu version and the standard valvebody played a part in it.

I have found ZERO difference in shift logic ignition retard and cut between models.

It doesn't "work" on all models. I have driven 10 or so Skyines autos supposedly "working" with aftermarket ECUs'. Not one of them had even remotely close to satisfactory gearchange smoothness or provided any protection for the gearbox at the time of the gearchange.

If you are going to use the Power FC to tune for any decent sort of power increase you will come to quickly realise what that means. As I said above, please keep us in the loop.

:D cheers :P

Paul,

The r33 autos have two ecus, the one on the left is the engine ecu(same place as manual) and than on the right hand kick panel is the auto ecu.

Geoff,

If u are the dude with the purple gtr around the lakes area, we have past each other a few times. Mine is the black s2. I am happy to let u take it out for a spin, car is at "Creatd" now getting a few things done, u are well come to go there and take it out for a spin.

Sydneykid,

Their are at least 2 r33's on this forum that have been using the pfc for well over a year, with the same setup as mine and roughly the same power as mine (>220rwkw)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...