Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone just after a bit of advice.

My brother is just about to buy a r33 4 door. He asked me is it worth paying the extra couple of grand to get series 2? I wouldnt really know because i drive a 32, so If some of you 33 drivers out there could enlighten me on some of the differences between S1 and 2 it would b much appreciated.

Cheers. Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/
Share on other sites

Internally......different coils to a series one. turbo has a plastc compressor wheel (series one has a metal one), both have ceramic exhaust wheel. Engine is the same and so is the gearbox etc.

Or if you mean internally as in Dash etc, the S2 has a nicer looking airbag steering wheel, dash is the same but surround is slightly different (the platic is more textured and the coin holder on the right of the steering wheel is gone).

I am sure there is some more but cant think of it all right now. I think that the S2 is worth the extra $$ for the updated front end.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2379252
Share on other sites

i imported a stock clean R33 series 1 5spd turbo sedan for $11500 inc on road costs.

I would expect you would pay upwards of $14K on the road for a clean series 2 5spd turbo sedan.

Can you show me a 5 speed S2 GTST thats Turbo and $14k or $15k Id will buy it today, thats about the price Im paying for my R33 GTST S2 Auto.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2380568
Share on other sites

Can you show me a 5 speed S2 GTST thats Turbo and $14k or $15k Id will buy it today, thats about the price Im paying for my R33 GTST S2 Auto.

Checking the jap auction sites, the price they go for would making $15K a reasonable figure for one. If you are buying locally from a yard or privately, you will pay more.

I bought mine through autoworx, cost me 260,000yen direct from the auctions. I didnt enquire about Series 2 turbo manual sedans as I didnt want one, but surely they would only be $3-4K more than a series 1.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2385589
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
Hey everyone just after a bit of advice.

My brother is just about to buy a r33 4 door. He asked me is it worth paying the extra couple of grand to get series 2? I wouldnt really know because i drive a 32, so If some of you 33 drivers out there could enlighten me on some of the differences between S1 and 2 it would b much appreciated.

Cheers. Ben

Paul from Autoworx wrote a R33 Skyline buyers guide which covers how to tell the difference between a Series 1 and Series II. Its free - I think you just have to sign up to the email newsletter to get the info. Heres the link http://www.autoworx.com.au/mail.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2453165
Share on other sites

Series one is better :P

Series II has different lights and a bit of a squarer front (to tell yo uthe truth its down to personal preference but i've never been a fan of the 2)

The series II has the airbags from memory.

Tell him to buy mine Ben :blink: its not a four door but what the heck - throw on some roof racks n store the kids up there :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2453205
Share on other sites

HAHA thx Lauren

he bought a car. Ended up buying off someone from here, i cant remember who though.

Its a white SII done 80,000 km, nearly dead stock besides bigger front lip and 17's. he paid $16500. Its very tidy.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/128666-r33-s1-vs-s2/#findComment-2455041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...