Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All.

It's a bit urgent. I once stumbled upon a generic intercooler install on the site somewhere; I think it was in PDF format, showing how to install an intercooler on an R33. AND now I can't find it.

Can someone please help, if they have one post it up or PM me? PLEASE.

Hi guys, has anyone got a version of the instalation manual scanned or a coppy they can send me through, i recived my kit form CRD wich is absolutly fantastic, i will post pics.

Only thing, no instructions, i know it's a generic type but i need to see where to cut the hole.

Can somone give me some hints as to where the whole needs to go for the piping and cooler.

URGENT.

Here you go.

Got it off the Hybrid site but can't find it now.

Can't remember is it was hybrid of HDI or some other name they go under.

Good luck.

I've posted some pics up somewhere to if you wanna check em out.

In the Forced Induction i think

Intercooler_Installation_GTSt.pdf

thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

thanks mate, found them LATE last night, exactly what i was after.

Quick question, the piping has no nipple for the wastgate actuator,did you guys make one up. Also i think the bracket for the main top pipe is out on mine, can somone post a pic of their engine bay for me. Ta

No nipple on mine either. Just extend the hose and T-Piece it into your vacuum hose off your blow off valve. What kit have you got?

yeah i have the CRD kit which is same as HYBRID. The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

I simply drilled and tapped my main cast pipe and scrwed in a nipple connection for the hose, no probs so far.

The thing is it is not good to have the wastgat see vacume, hence why the bleed is usually taken before the butterfly, i would fix it, as sooner or later it will stuff up.

Can you elaborate on this a bit for me? Reasons why?

The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

yess there is an ARC side mounted one, that replaces the stock unit, or you can get a R34 GTT side one if you are only going to have 200kW or so. But ARC also do a front mount that uses stock piping, do a search and something should come up.

VERY pricy though, R44 GTT much cheaper.

man the hydrid kit look like a bit of stuffing around..

is there a kit that doesn't require cutting holes because i think it is now illegal to cut any part of the frame.

isn't there a kit that connect up to the two stock holes?

Pretty sure any FMIC install will have to take a bit out of the reinforcement bar. Give it a shot. I did mine and I had never used an angle grinder before.

  • 2 weeks later...
The wastegate is sprung to hold the gate shut until it sees a pressure form the boost controller, or thereabouts, and putting the gate under vacuum can damage the membrane inside as it was not designed to see vacuum.

Also the gate will open slower if plumed off after the throttle, this is because the controller never sees full boost as quick and allow for the gate to work.

Basically it, it is easy to do, go to a auto shop ask for a 5mm vacuum nipple with a treaded end, mine was 8mm thread hole, and drill and tap, use some silicon tape and hay presto.

PM me if you need some help

I did this over the weekend and boost is coming on a bit quicker now. I just thought i weas experiencing extra turbo lag when I intsalled the FMIC but it looks like the turbo takes a bit longer to boost up when the connection is made after (?) the throttle

Cheers Wog.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...