Jump to content
SAU Community

Running In Engine

_MRR33

By _MRR33,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

_MRR33 Experienced

_MRR33

Posted
Posted

Hopefully I get my Skyline (R33 GTS-T) back this week, it's dragged on long enough already, but anywho, was just wondering whats the best way to run the engine in? It's had a complete Forged engine rebuild

Hills? Highway? What speeds? etc..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/129959-running-in-engine/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

bed the rings on the dyno.

Then tune it up. Its pretty basic.

The whole "1000km this" "5000km that" "light load" "heavy load" etc etc is all rubbish.

I've had one motor bed on the dyno, and drove out the door on virtually the full tune.

Will be doing the same for my RB26 :(

_MRR33 Experienced

_MRR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
bed the rings on the dyno.

Then tune it up. Its pretty basic.

The whole "1000km this" "5000km that" "light load" "heavy load" etc etc is all rubbish.

I've had one motor bed on the dyno, and drove out the door on virtually the full tune.

Will be doing the same for my RB26 :thumbsup:

I get diffrent opinions from people, thats why I wanted to see what other people thought FATGTS-R and Do-Luck.

But, anyways we're going to bed the rings on the Dyno, and "run it in" over 2000KM. Just wanted other people's opinion, is 2000KM long enough, or too short?

Thanks for the responses.

_MRR33 Experienced

_MRR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Whered you get the rebuild done in brisbane?

By a bloke named Rob at 101 in Slacks Creek, he done cars such as 'Drag Me' etc. Good service, but dam they take a very long time, they've had my car for two months now and it's still not finished.

ossie_21 Grand Master

ossie_21

Posted
Posted

I read an article on this last night as I will be running one in soon as well. The concept is to allow all the surfaces that will be rubbing each other to match eachother so they can cope throught he whole temperature range. So yes this does mean it's a good idea to drive like a sissy from the start.

Throughout the process (2000km your mechanic said, but 1000 really should be tops these days), you gradually drive harder & harder. They should also be setting the rev limiter to about 4000rpm for you as well.

OK I am hungover today & I know I can word it better than I have but hopefully it makes some sense.

Nismoid you are very brave to leave the workshop on gate. :no:

knore Grand Master

knore

Posted
Posted (edited)
By a bloke named Rob at 101 in Slacks Creek, he done cars such as 'Drag Me' etc. Good service, but dam they take a very long time, they've had my car for two months now and it's still not finished.

I guess thats ok aslong as its all done properly though, ive got a friend with a car there, blue 32 with the lot

Can you post a list of the things done and an approx price?

Edited by knore
Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
Nismoid you are very brave to leave the workshop on gate. :(

Hell, if the builder will warranty the engine on the "run it in hard and it'll go hard" theory then why not. Any failure goes back on him!

If I was wearing the risk myself though, I'd take it easy at first and gradually get into it after a few clicks. That way at least you have some recourse that you didn't even flog it and it died, so it can't be your fault.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted
Nismoid you are very brave to leave the workshop on gate. :(

Not really. Im dealing with one of the more knowledgeable people in the business.

When you trust someone's word, i dont see it as a risk. We ran it @ 75-80% power for around a week at the most.

Going from 200rwkw to near 300rwkw i was happy to have it detuned a tad.

The motor was apart semi-recently and it was A-OK internally. Not a thing wrong with it after over 7,000km's of some serious work from day one.

So there is no doubt at all in my mind that the method works and ill have my RB26 done the same way. Bed it on the dyno and just tune it up.

There is no warranty on performance anyway. Your kidding yourself you think there is :)

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted
There is no warranty on performance anyway. Your kidding yourself you think there is :)

Hence the 'If' - if I just paid several grand for a new engine I'd be babying it!! :(

If I earnt enough that I didn't care if it popped again yeah I'd give it arseholes out of the box :)

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

bearing clearances opening up, things settling in over a few heat cycles, any microscopic high points on bearings/cams/rings being worn smooth, etc..

new engines are supposed to be pretty tight, forcing them to make a lot of power straight up seems a bit mean :wave:

but most of the above is probably done in the first 50km, after that it makes less and less difference!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Blue slip

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • MBS206
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • MBS206
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Murray_Calavera
      Questions on potential new purchase

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...