Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Question to those that have made their own alluminium boxes: Do your boxes get hot to the touch on the outside too???

Not if you cover them is a some high density foam (glued onto the allly that is). If you don't use some kind of insulation material, you're simpoly delaying the effects the heat soak. Aluminium absorbs heat very quickly, but with some foam against it, the heat has to get through that too - which take a LONG time, but tends to disaapate before having effect on intake temps.

Filters and airboxes have been of great interest to me and although i have not made a custom airbox as of yet i have a heap of info and research. To me a 'Fully Enclosed' box means just that, a box containing the pod, when i decide to make mine i dont want to use the engine bay or the bonnet to seal off the pod, as those metals would get hot as well. The pod i would use would be a Apexi dual intake as its non oiled(important for AFM equipped cars) and also has the best flow and filteration(various sites have tested different pods, apexi came out on top). The box would be made os 1-2mm thick aluminium and would be welded tight(except the top), i will test it by filling it with water to see if there are any leaks and such. The top would be removable in order to change pods etc, but would be fitted tight. Wrapping it up would be the job of rubber (from clarke rubber of course) as aluminum would heat up and its thicker then foam (plus would look better). Providing the air would be the job of a big Bellmouth to the front of the car. Of course it is a big job, which is why im leaving it till after i put a bigger turbo on their as i would have to change the piping, AFM, brackets etc. If you wanted to you could also heat wrap the intake pipe to the turbo. But for now im sticking with the stock airbox with an apexi panel and additional flexi pipe to the box.

  • 1 month later...

After the front mount went in I thought I'd put that hole under the air filter to use. I sealed up the alluminium box I made a bit more(photos of the box above in an earlier post), and used some flexible tubing.

Here are the pics.

1. self explanatory

2. also pretty self explanatory

3. under the bumper, looking up at where the pipe attaches to the air duct in the bar.

4. the front bar is to the right in this shot

5. the pipe here is heading back and up into the cold air box.

  • 3 weeks later...

For anybodys info, I've recently designed and installed an electronic circuit which displays temperatures from four thermocouples around the car (EGT, Oil, Intake air and Ambient air) and I did some testing on temperatures. When cruising at a constant speed of anywhere between 60-110km/h, without the CAI or partition and with a K&N Pod filter, I was getting intake temps of 10+degC above ambient. Now I get intake temps (thermocouple located just before throttle body) of only 1-2 above ambient.

Hi Guys,

Have any of u guys had any dramas with your cai kit picking up water when it rains? We had a simular setup on my dads r33 and whenever it rained the ic would fill up with water! We were considering putting a drain plug on one of the ic end tanks!

Have any of u guys had any dramas with your cai kit picking up water when it rains? We had a simular setup on my dads r33 and whenever it rained the ic would fill up with water! We were considering putting a drain plug on one of the ic end tanks!

My cai pipes have been placed/designed not to pickUP water. (although to be honost I havent driven in the rain yet).

They will pick up some to about 5cm in of the pipe but after that unless you have a few lads each with a hose or bucket there ain't no way the water is getting up/in.

Wouldnt a drain plug allow all the air to get out?

Ohh so you have a plug in it, turn off the car, then you can drain the water out. Rightt.. Doesn't sound like a great idea - i mean the plug being there seems to me like its asking to pop out but sounds good in terms of getting water out.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52538

Have a look in this thread for how my pipes go.

I can't say its a stroke of engineering genius but its simple really - the air goes up the water stays in the first part of the pipe. I've found a few rocks in it and all the dirt/particles/whatever also gather in that first part before the pipe goes up - suits me fine.

Funnily enough though since I put my CAI setup in I've noticed more road-'dust' in that area of the engine bay heh heh. Price we pay.

Here's the pic of my dodgily constructed air shield - the previous pics in this thread have inspired me to go back to my garage and make a straight cut one which will look a helluva lot nicer which I will at a later date. If I end up needing a totally enclosed box for engineering I won't bother and I'll jsut pay for a box (damnit i hate paying) but yeah.

Atleast the rubber sits up into the hood (i assume) :P

I'd say the reason you're not getting any rocks water etc up on teh pod is that the CAI pipe is a convoluted one (with "ripples" in it) and not completely smooth like a PVC drain pipe. Using PVC pipe you're more of a chance of getting water around pod area. In saying that, I been through some pretty hefty rain storms with my 75mm PVC CAI pipe that sits right up against the lower front bumper to collect air and never had an issue with water in the intake.

Yeah today i "lost" my front pipe (i found it on my front wheel) because it had wiggled out of a zip tie.

It's kinda mangled now soI just ordered some orange neoprene stuff from revolution racegear. Guy was really helpful they have a black stuff too but it's hardcore use i don't think i'll need it (plus it was more expensive).

  • 4 weeks later...

Some of us weren't lucky enough to have imports that came with standard airboxes and ducting. Mine came with HKS pod filters with no partition so it would suck heaps of hot air.

Decided to make up a fully enclosed airbox that had holes for BOV return, intake piping and the all important cold air feed from under the headlight. I made the box template out of cardboard and masking tape. I plan to make the box out of fibreglass when I get off my ass and actually do it. I'm also thinking about getting a pipe to go from the bumper opening next to the intercooler (HKS intercooler so theres less room around there) to the hole under the headlight. That looks like the hardest bit to me.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i do laser cutting and and have been thinking about cutting some designs for cold air partitions but havent got any good schematics, if someone could suppy a design that would fit perfectly i could get a couple hundred cut...

email me: [email protected]

I was gonna say if you're in Sydney I'd volunteer you a cefiro for test fit :)

Would there be a chance of you doing maybe about 10 for cefiros? I'm sure some ceffy guys would be interested.

I'd personally be lovin if you left the top bit blank so I could put in a perspex screen.

What kinda schematics would you require? Do you have a sample schematic? Cos if you would do cefiro ones I would have a go at drawing it up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all! I'm curious about how y'all go about widebodying your cars. I noticed that when running a square setup, my front wheels are a bit more tucked in than my rear wheels. Not by much, maybe 5-10mm. This leads me to wonder - when I widebody, should I use narrower front flares and wider rear flares? I found a set of 40mm rear flares that I really like, and was thinking of pairing them with some 18mm front flares, but I don't want the car to look strange. How have others done this? Note, I'm in a sedan. Thanks!
    • And if it was anything other than an auto tranny part, it might be a problem. But seeing as all auto trannies belong in the recycling bin, it's fine.
    • I have an R32 Fenix rad. It is good.
    • All the schemas I can see, indicate your typical setup of ATF 'cooler' (read: heat exchanger) in the bottom radiator tank..ie; https://nissan.epc-data.com/stagea/wgnc34/5413-rb25det/engine/214/ ...but I can prattle on a bit here. These trannies have a thermistor in the sump ~ the TCU reads this and 1. bumps the line pressure up when the ATF is 'cold' and 2. prevents the TC lockup clutch from operating, until the ATF comes up to minimum operating temp (keeps the ATF 'churning' through the TC so it heats up quicker) -- trigger point is around 55C. In these conditions, the engine coolant temperature rises faster than the ATF temperature, and also helps heat the ATF up, which is why it's best to think of the in radiator tank setup as a heat exchanger ; the heat can flow in both directions... ...with these trannies, the 'hot' ATF comes out the front banjo bolt, flows through the cooler/heat exchanger, and returns to the box  via the rear banjo bolt. This gets a mention, due to the wildly different opinions wrt running auto trans fluid coolers ~ do you bypass the in radiator tank altogether, or put the cooler inline with the in radiator tank system...and then, do you put the additional cooler before of after the in radiator tank system?... ....fact is the nominal engine operating temp (roughly 75C), happens to be the ideal temperature for the ATF used in these trannies as well (no surprises there), so for the in radiator tank system to actually 'cool' the ATF, the ATF temp has to be hotter than that...lets say 100C -- you've got 25C of 'excess' heat, (slowly) pumping into the 75C coolant. This part of the equation changes drastically, when you've got 100C ATF flowing through an air cooled radiator ; you can move a lot more excess heat, faster ~ it is possible to cool the ATF 'too much' as it were...(climate matters a lot)... ...in an 'ideal' setup, what you're really trying to control here, is flash heating of the ATF, primarily produced by the TC interface. In a perfect world, wrt auto trans oil cooling, you want a dedicated trans cooler with builtin thermostatic valving - they exist. These should be run inline and before the in radiator tank system ~ when 'cold' the valving bypasses the fin stack, allowing the ATF to flow direct to the in radiator tank heat exchanger, so it works 'as intended' with helping heat the ATF up. When 'hot' (iirc it was 50C threshold), the valving shuts forcing the ATF through the cooler fin stack, and onto the in radiator tank heat exchanger...and you sort of think of it as a 'thermal conditioner' of sorts...ie; if you did cool your ATF down to 65C, the coolant will add a little heat, otherwise it works as intended... ...the 'hot' ATF coming from the front bango bolt, is instantiated from the TC when in use, so all/any flash heated oil, flows to the fluid-to-air cooler first, and because of the greater heat differential, you can get rid of this heat fast. Just how big (BTU/h) this cooler needs to be to effectively dissipate this TC flash heat, is the charm...too many variables to discuss here, but I just wanted to point out the nitty-gritty of automatic trans fluid coolers ~ they're a different beastie to what most ppl think of when considering an 'oil cooler'... /3.5cents   
    • Been a busy but productive day. Axle and hubs acquired. All fitted up after a bit of modifying. Need to sort out wider mudguards and running light reflector covers but other than that the trailer is gooood to go !!
×
×
  • Create New...