Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts4 Rear Diff Compatabilty

OREX
 Share

Recommended Posts

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

My GTS4 rear diff has started whining at all speeds, getting louder as speed increases. I've been told it could be bearings, or washers etc. but have been quoted up to $1000 for a rebuild.

I placed an ad in the wanted section asking for a used rear diff, but as the gears are 4.375 I'm told they are not the same as the more common GTST or even GTR gears.

So now what I need to know is do any other skylines, stageas, cefiros etc come out with a similar diff, so i can widen my search?

Any info is appreciated.

Cheers,

George.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130049-r32-gts4-rear-diff-compatabilty/
Share on other sites
ebola Proficient

ebola

Posted
Posted

The diff ratio in the gts4 is unique (across the r32 range).

How do aftermarket mechanical diffs comapare on price?

Also, I think you can change the ratio of a diff fairly simply... but I could be wrong.

keep us posted on what you do. I for one would like some options when my diff finally goes...

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Damn it man, unique diff gears? How typical! I've been quoted on a Kaaz mech diff, didn't specify 1 or 2 way, for $1050. I seriously doubt it will be the same gears as the GTS4 then, probably meant for a GTST replacement.

ebola, I like your idea of changing ratios in the same housings, but again, no one I've spoken to has a clue how to quote me on it. I rang one dude "Blind Elk" recommended but he wasn't sure he could fix it. Running really low on options, looking to be cheaper and easier to do a GTR gearbox/diffs combo swap etc.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted
...I've been quoted on a Kaaz mech diff, didn't specify 1 or 2 way, for $1050. I seriously doubt it will be the same gears as the GTS4 then, probably meant for a GTST replacement.
I thought that was the centre only - you need to attach your crown wheel and pinion.
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

yeah exactly those diffs are centre only.

In fact you can drop in any diff centre to suit a r200 short nose (all ones since r32)

As long as the noise is not in your crown wheel....but much more likely the centre has problems.

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So basically what you're both saying, is that I take my diff centre out and swap in a 32 GTST centre, but bolt my drive shafts back on etc and it will be the same ratio?

I thought there was a difference in the gears/number of gear rotations themselves inside the diff centre. If anyone's got an easy way to explain it I'd appreciate it, as I've been offered std. 32 GTST diffs for $330 from a wrecker, so if I can swap parts etc. it will be easy as hell!

Duncan, if the noise is in my crown wheel, then what happens?

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

When you open up the (replacement) diff and remove the centre, it will have a crown wheel attached to it. Undo the bolts and remove the crown wheel. Then do the same with your current diff.

Now bolt the crown wheel from your current diff onto the centre from the new diff, and install that centre in your diff housing.

Since you still have the same gears, you have the same ratios.

(It will all be really obvious when you do this)

If it's a problem with the crown wheel and / or pinion, then you are in deep doo-doos. It's probably a trip to the bank to extend your mortgage so you can buy a new set from Nissan!

TurboX Mentor

TurboX

Posted
Posted

Considering thats one thing on my GTS4 that actually is OK (I prey) :mad:

what is the best lubricant to put in there to keep it that way and avoid noise/wear problems?

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks a lot for that info Blind Elk, I'm going to look for a GTST diff now, is that all I need to do the swap? And also, how will I know if my crown wheel/pinion is damaged?

TurboX- I'm told I should use some oil called "Redline Shockproof" I know nothing about it but a lot of people said to use it.

AzzurrA Grand Master

AzzurrA

Posted
Posted

so, quick question... in my R32 GTS-t, the diff is a bit whiney... so what you're saying is i can get a diff centre from something like an R32 GTR, or R33 GTST/GTR or even an R34 and it will bolt up? do they all have the same amount of splines for the driveshafts, physically the same size etc?

OREX Collaborator

OREX

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Guys I've now seen the R200 short nose with five single bolts, or three double bolts (make sense?)

Are they the same stuff inside, so i can use either R200 with my original crown wheel (assuming it's not stuffed) and pinion gear?

Let me know if I've got it wrong again.

Cheers,

George.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Yeah there are differences with the axles.

So, check out if you have the 5 or 6 bolt holes (GTR are 6 not sure about any other ones.) Then you match the axles to the # of bolts on your car and the number of splines in the diff centre you need to use.

As long as it all matches you are in business....but sorry I'm not sure which cars have which driveshafts, axles or spline counts....someone should do an FAQ about it all one day

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...