Jump to content
SAU Community

Syncro On 4th Is Not Happy

NickR33

By NickR33,
in Drivetrain and transmission

 Share

Recommended Posts

RodMonsta Collaborator

RodMonsta

Posted
Posted
Your looking at $1000+ for gearbox rebuild..

Approx. $350 + gst to pull down and replace the box..

Approx. $400 + gst to replace any parts, check everything, rebuild..

+ Parts..

hmm thank god i thought it was gonna be $2000+ still expensive tho, any place you guys can recommend for this sort of work?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

How'd you end up going - find somewhere to get it done??

Reason why people recommend getting the gearbox reconditioned because of the fact that atleast you'll know what life it's lived..

And also - cubes wants a cheap second hand box ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

I bought Redline shockproof for my GTR and just did the change, what a difference.

I also had crunch from 3rd to 4th.NO CRUNCHING NOW. ;)

Reading the specs, the Burson's sales staff after asking my car type said the redline-shockproof was the oil required for the gear box .

So why are people saying not to use it? It is on paper from redline as a dirrect replacement oil.

Try Redline first, then see if it works. Cost $110 4L approx.

Do a gear box re-build when it's nakkered

Link to comment
Share on other sites
RodMonsta Collaborator

RodMonsta

Posted
Posted
How'd you end up going - find somewhere to get it done??

Reason why people recommend getting the gearbox reconditioned because of the fact that atleast you'll know what life it's lived..

And also - cubes wants a cheap second hand box

havent't look for a place yet, the crunch is not really bad and doesnt happen all the time, im just preparing for worst case scenario.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rbboy_23 Contributor

rbboy_23

Posted
Posted

dont worry you are not the only one, my 1-2 and 5th crunchs, but my problem is wat oil do i change to, currently its running some castrol oil, do i change over to a thick or thin, i know 2 mechanics and both are saying differently, logic says thick to stop the metal grinding, i notice redline shockproof gets mentioned alot here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Gram
      Rb25det neo issue tps voltage

      By Gram · Posted

      hey GTSboy thanks for the quick reply. im on stock ECU  Surprisngly enough i unplug everything and replug everything, readings are still off but the car drove...ok haha So far this is what i have done. - Replaced ECU (still 1.5v) - Replaced Boost sensor (still 1.5v) Now the next thing i tried is to unplug the TPS and only plug in the Boost sensor to see if it reads 5v. No it still only read 1.5v.  Its a new boost sensor and i know i have 5v if i dont plug the sensor back in, so that means the power wire is good. So now im thinking that it might be a bad ground on the boost sensor plug.  on the FSM says the ground to the boost sensor is  a sensor ground, can i add a ground wire from the boost sensor ground wire to the the engine itself to ground it? or chassis?
    • GTSBoy
      Rb25det neo issue tps voltage

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      OK, so, assuming that there is nothing wrong with either the original or new boost sensor, then it would seem that there might be something wrong in the loom wiring to that sensor. This is troublesome, because if that were true, then you might expect the problem to persist when the sensor was unplugged. But seeing as the voltage comes good when it is unplugged, it would suggest that the fault might (and I stress might) be right at the loom plug. Either that, or the fault might be at the ECU, on the line in from the boost sensor. When you unplug the boost sensor, that input at the ECU is isolated from the TPS sensor and can't affect it. This would be semi-bad, as an ECU problem is never welcome, but at least you'd know where the problem is and it might be fixable, or at least replaceable. Do you have Nistune, or any other way of looking at ECU data? I'd want to drive the car around with the boost sensor unplugged and see the TPS working properly, then not working properly with the sensor plugged back in. You're not trying to run more than ~18 psi either? Right? Because even with Nistune that can be difficult with the boost sensor connected. Just checking, in case it might have some bearing on the issue. It shouldn't cause the voltage situation you're seeing though.
    • The Bogan
      My BMW 335i

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Need something reliable, like a Mazda (non-rotary), or a Honda, or a .......... Commodore 🤣, the only issue with my cars is me 🫤
    • PranK
      Like loud exhausts? You could be a psychopath.

      By PranK · Posted

      Definitely a psychopath. 
    • PranK
      MLR's Bogan cruise ship

      By PranK · Posted

      Then sell it and buy a BMW! I can totally relate to this (except the money part! ). I think for me I need to remind myself that I do enjoy the process and to stop being so damn impatient and eager to get it done. That just leads to frustration and broken stuff.  Built not bought. Wait.  Fixed, not fought? No ... Definitely fighting things. Definitely not fixed, I give up. Cars are pain.  
×
×
  • Create New...