Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Im looking to purchase a cusco diff for my car but i would just like some advice first. (NISSAN SKYLINE R33 GTS-t)

1) RS or MZ, my car is primaraly for the street but i do on odd occasions race it. I understand the RS is better for the street but what are the main disadvantages of 1 over the other in terms of driving comfort/safety/performance

2) 1, 1.5 way adjustable?

From what i understood, the cusco diffs can be adjusted for 1 or 1.5 way without extra parts, so why are they being sold as seperate products?

3) I am concerned about the shuddering of a 1.5way diff. Is there any advantage of 1.5way over 1way (except for drifting). If i get a 1way, will it shudder? If i get the 1.5way, will the shuddering eventually go away after a couple of gran kms driving and a few oil changes? Is say a KAZ one better than CUSCO in terms of shuddering?

thanx ppl

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130896-question-of-wat-diff-to-get/
Share on other sites

According to their website RS will engage more smoothly, which is what you want on the street. On the track, response time counts more and racers don't care if the diff clunks with sudden engagement.

I would get a 1.5 way diff for the street, personally.

Shuddering I'm not sure about, but I expect it would be less of an issue with the RS diff as the springs absorb the initial shock. I've heard the KAAZ diff shudders like buggery when new, but once broken in they are much better.

RS would probably be the go. Cusco recommend it if it's street driven (less harsh clutch engagement etc.)

I would suggest 1.5-way for overall useability/goodness. If you plan on going anywhere near a drift track, 1-way's are near useless.

i don't know, but all the new-ish kaaz 1.5 and 2-way diffs i've seen shudder like a bitch, i would avoid kaaz diff's if you are after something less-harsh.

Cusco are ment to be good, but i've never driven one. It's almost impossible to avoid some degree of harsh engagement with mech diffs, especially when brand new...

i personaly prefer nismo.

they are oldschool but WORK and dont let the whole of woolworths carpark know you have a aftermarket diff.

ive driven cars with kaas,cusco 2ways and they are crazy harsh. i could sware the driveshafts were gonna come through the floor. just way to harsh and for circut racing it would be way to taily. great for drift but just no fun on the street,well after a few hours anyway lol

1way is only good for front wheel drives. as it only locks up in 1 direction. perfect for gtr's in the front.

for the street a 1 way is really what alot of people want but dont realise it. whats the point of locking up the rears on deceleration?

1.5way is more suited for people who can drive. its a circut racing style diff. it offers good lockup on aceleration but also offers a slight lockup on decel/bracking to stop one rear locking up under braking. it oes a good job of it to ;)

2way (depending on the brand) is a drift diff esentally. gives crazy lockup in both directions. quite scary in the rain and i woulnt recomend it if you have a girlfriend, (ones that arnt into cars that is lol) coz they will think your car is broken, with all the clunking and banging :P

with any of theses using a "friction modifier addative" is needed to smoth out the clunking.

either the holden one or the nismo one works well

hope that helps

i woulnt recomend it if you have a girlfriend,

lol, i know what you mean. My passenger side arm rest handle is broken thanks to this....

i've driven in the wet before in cars with 2-ways, and also in cars with fully locked. The fully locked feels safer because there is no sudden engagement, but they are both safe enough if you drive the car sensibly.

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

Have decided that since i mostly use my car for street purposes and hardly ever for drift that i will have my diff rebuilt and made tight.

Wat put me off a lot was the clunking of the mech diff, i'm a lover of comfort and i always have girls in the car so i dont want them to start hating my car, lol. Plus its a cheaper option. Diff rebuilds are about 800 - 1000 yea?

So is a 2 way diff the same as a locked diff?

Do circuit cars only use 1.5 or some use 2?

Why is 2 way such a good drift diff and why is 1 way no good? Afterall, when youre going through a corner and dump the clutch, your accelerating... Is it because youre on and off the throttle all the time for example one point through the corner youre acclerating (1 way spins both) and then you back of a bit (in which 1 way and 1.5 way would revert to spinning one wheel???) and then back on, (1 way back on)...??

Edited by 180bfj20det
Have decided that since i mostly use my car for street purposes and hardly ever for drift that i will have my diff rebuilt and made tight.

Haven't heard of anyone rebuilding a viscous LSD. The LSD unit is hermetically sealed so you probably have to cut it to get it open. And nobody would bother rebuilding one they all go to clutch LSDs if you want proper LSD action. You'd be better off finding someone with a second hand GTR diff in good condition, it will probably be more compliant than an aftermarket diff. It'll probably cost the same tho :)

So is a 2 way diff the same as a locked diff?

Read this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

I read the link before you posted it, it doesnt really answer my question. A locker will lock both up when decelerating hard (same as 2 way) will hook both up all the time when accelerating (like all lsd hopefully) but a locker wont go around a corner without letting you know about it....will a 2 way be also a bitch like a locker and if so, why not just weld your diff??

My Kazz 1.5 way took about two months and two oil changes to be completly quite, but now, it's perfect.

You can still hear it when the oil is cold, but after that, it's fine.

You figure out how to reduce any noises by different styles in carpark driving.

It's quite, it's fine to live with (providing you put the right oil in it) and it locks up hard when accelerating.

it's perfect for what I want.

I found that with my stock diff, it would only spin two wheels in second gear, otherwise it was one wheel. with the 1.5 way Kaaz, it spins both, but the threshold of spinning is much higher as both wheels need to spin.

This is great on the track and the skid pan.

It's much more predicatable and controllable then the stock diff that would sometimes lock up and sometimes not.

BASS OUT

I read the link before you posted it, it doesnt really answer my question. A locker will lock both up when decelerating hard (same as 2 way) will hook both up all the time when accelerating (like all lsd hopefully) but a locker wont go around a corner without letting you know about it....will a 2 way be also a bitch like a locker and if so, why not just weld your diff??

A 2-way won't be as bad as a locker, but around tight corners and parking it'll still let you know about it. I haven't driven a 2-way but by the sounds of things it's largely impractical for the street.

I had a mini-spool in my last car, and although the ability to get sideways was awesome if you're at all serious about decent handling you'd be silly to get one. Off-throttle it understeers and on-throttle it oversteers, you need a delicate balancing act to go around a corner quickly. Which is fun in itself, but requires a lot of concentration because if you overcook a corner your first instinct is to brake, which makes you understeer more.

i personaly prefer nismo.

they are oldschool but WORK and dont let the whole of woolworths carpark know you have a aftermarket diff.

ive driven cars with kaas,cusco 2ways and they are crazy harsh. i could sware the driveshafts were gonna come through the floor. just way to harsh and for circut racing it would be way to taily. great for drift but just no fun on the street,well after a few hours anyway lol

I agree with this 100%

Driven cars with Nismo, Cusco, KAAZ and ATS lsd's ( all 1.5 ) and the Nismo was by far the most user friendly diff of the lot.

I had an ATS 1.5 LSD in my 32 and yeah, they do quiet down a bit after a long time with the use of a friction modifyer, and yeah you do learn to drive the car a certain way so as not to tell everyone that you've got an LSD. But if I was to do it again, I would buy a Nismo ( or if I had the money I would try an ATS Carbon LSD :rofl: ) http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-products/lsd-carbon.shtml

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...