Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, Im looking to purchase a cusco diff for my car but i would just like some advice first. (NISSAN SKYLINE R33 GTS-t)

1) RS or MZ, my car is primaraly for the street but i do on odd occasions race it. I understand the RS is better for the street but what are the main disadvantages of 1 over the other in terms of driving comfort/safety/performance

2) 1, 1.5 way adjustable?

From what i understood, the cusco diffs can be adjusted for 1 or 1.5 way without extra parts, so why are they being sold as seperate products?

3) I am concerned about the shuddering of a 1.5way diff. Is there any advantage of 1.5way over 1way (except for drifting). If i get a 1way, will it shudder? If i get the 1.5way, will the shuddering eventually go away after a couple of gran kms driving and a few oil changes? Is say a KAZ one better than CUSCO in terms of shuddering?

thanx ppl

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/130896-question-of-wat-diff-to-get/
Share on other sites

According to their website RS will engage more smoothly, which is what you want on the street. On the track, response time counts more and racers don't care if the diff clunks with sudden engagement.

I would get a 1.5 way diff for the street, personally.

Shuddering I'm not sure about, but I expect it would be less of an issue with the RS diff as the springs absorb the initial shock. I've heard the KAAZ diff shudders like buggery when new, but once broken in they are much better.

RS would probably be the go. Cusco recommend it if it's street driven (less harsh clutch engagement etc.)

I would suggest 1.5-way for overall useability/goodness. If you plan on going anywhere near a drift track, 1-way's are near useless.

i don't know, but all the new-ish kaaz 1.5 and 2-way diffs i've seen shudder like a bitch, i would avoid kaaz diff's if you are after something less-harsh.

Cusco are ment to be good, but i've never driven one. It's almost impossible to avoid some degree of harsh engagement with mech diffs, especially when brand new...

i personaly prefer nismo.

they are oldschool but WORK and dont let the whole of woolworths carpark know you have a aftermarket diff.

ive driven cars with kaas,cusco 2ways and they are crazy harsh. i could sware the driveshafts were gonna come through the floor. just way to harsh and for circut racing it would be way to taily. great for drift but just no fun on the street,well after a few hours anyway lol

1way is only good for front wheel drives. as it only locks up in 1 direction. perfect for gtr's in the front.

for the street a 1 way is really what alot of people want but dont realise it. whats the point of locking up the rears on deceleration?

1.5way is more suited for people who can drive. its a circut racing style diff. it offers good lockup on aceleration but also offers a slight lockup on decel/bracking to stop one rear locking up under braking. it oes a good job of it to ;)

2way (depending on the brand) is a drift diff esentally. gives crazy lockup in both directions. quite scary in the rain and i woulnt recomend it if you have a girlfriend, (ones that arnt into cars that is lol) coz they will think your car is broken, with all the clunking and banging :P

with any of theses using a "friction modifier addative" is needed to smoth out the clunking.

either the holden one or the nismo one works well

hope that helps

i woulnt recomend it if you have a girlfriend,

lol, i know what you mean. My passenger side arm rest handle is broken thanks to this....

i've driven in the wet before in cars with 2-ways, and also in cars with fully locked. The fully locked feels safer because there is no sudden engagement, but they are both safe enough if you drive the car sensibly.

Edited by MerlinTheHapyPig

Have decided that since i mostly use my car for street purposes and hardly ever for drift that i will have my diff rebuilt and made tight.

Wat put me off a lot was the clunking of the mech diff, i'm a lover of comfort and i always have girls in the car so i dont want them to start hating my car, lol. Plus its a cheaper option. Diff rebuilds are about 800 - 1000 yea?

So is a 2 way diff the same as a locked diff?

Do circuit cars only use 1.5 or some use 2?

Why is 2 way such a good drift diff and why is 1 way no good? Afterall, when youre going through a corner and dump the clutch, your accelerating... Is it because youre on and off the throttle all the time for example one point through the corner youre acclerating (1 way spins both) and then you back of a bit (in which 1 way and 1.5 way would revert to spinning one wheel???) and then back on, (1 way back on)...??

Edited by 180bfj20det
Have decided that since i mostly use my car for street purposes and hardly ever for drift that i will have my diff rebuilt and made tight.

Haven't heard of anyone rebuilding a viscous LSD. The LSD unit is hermetically sealed so you probably have to cut it to get it open. And nobody would bother rebuilding one they all go to clutch LSDs if you want proper LSD action. You'd be better off finding someone with a second hand GTR diff in good condition, it will probably be more compliant than an aftermarket diff. It'll probably cost the same tho :)

So is a 2 way diff the same as a locked diff?

Read this article: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

I read the link before you posted it, it doesnt really answer my question. A locker will lock both up when decelerating hard (same as 2 way) will hook both up all the time when accelerating (like all lsd hopefully) but a locker wont go around a corner without letting you know about it....will a 2 way be also a bitch like a locker and if so, why not just weld your diff??

My Kazz 1.5 way took about two months and two oil changes to be completly quite, but now, it's perfect.

You can still hear it when the oil is cold, but after that, it's fine.

You figure out how to reduce any noises by different styles in carpark driving.

It's quite, it's fine to live with (providing you put the right oil in it) and it locks up hard when accelerating.

it's perfect for what I want.

I found that with my stock diff, it would only spin two wheels in second gear, otherwise it was one wheel. with the 1.5 way Kaaz, it spins both, but the threshold of spinning is much higher as both wheels need to spin.

This is great on the track and the skid pan.

It's much more predicatable and controllable then the stock diff that would sometimes lock up and sometimes not.

BASS OUT

I read the link before you posted it, it doesnt really answer my question. A locker will lock both up when decelerating hard (same as 2 way) will hook both up all the time when accelerating (like all lsd hopefully) but a locker wont go around a corner without letting you know about it....will a 2 way be also a bitch like a locker and if so, why not just weld your diff??

A 2-way won't be as bad as a locker, but around tight corners and parking it'll still let you know about it. I haven't driven a 2-way but by the sounds of things it's largely impractical for the street.

I had a mini-spool in my last car, and although the ability to get sideways was awesome if you're at all serious about decent handling you'd be silly to get one. Off-throttle it understeers and on-throttle it oversteers, you need a delicate balancing act to go around a corner quickly. Which is fun in itself, but requires a lot of concentration because if you overcook a corner your first instinct is to brake, which makes you understeer more.

i personaly prefer nismo.

they are oldschool but WORK and dont let the whole of woolworths carpark know you have a aftermarket diff.

ive driven cars with kaas,cusco 2ways and they are crazy harsh. i could sware the driveshafts were gonna come through the floor. just way to harsh and for circut racing it would be way to taily. great for drift but just no fun on the street,well after a few hours anyway lol

I agree with this 100%

Driven cars with Nismo, Cusco, KAAZ and ATS lsd's ( all 1.5 ) and the Nismo was by far the most user friendly diff of the lot.

I had an ATS 1.5 LSD in my 32 and yeah, they do quiet down a bit after a long time with the use of a friction modifyer, and yeah you do learn to drive the car a certain way so as not to tell everyone that you've got an LSD. But if I was to do it again, I would buy a Nismo ( or if I had the money I would try an ATS Carbon LSD :rofl: ) http://www.a-t-s-usa.com/ats-products/lsd-carbon.shtml

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...