Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guest MFX_R33

Pawel,

You could possibly sell the engine off eaiser than the whole car (with a swap for a stock engine). I would consider this in a couple of months. As I know alot of people get attached to their cars and want to improve their own, without going through the trouble of selling theirs and buying yours.

Just a suggestion, could be a quicker option in the long run????

Jeff.

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1992, 5 speed, alpine cd player, might be jacked up (not sure) 83,000 kay's, sunraysia wheels, sports exhaust, and it's white and a soft top ( J top means soft top) and is an import.

whats your email, and i'll scan some pics as soon as I can

well i doubt you would be interested in mine.. but

1993 2.4 with recaro interior and auto

90,000kms

Widebody, rear spoiler, nudge bar & sunroof

very simple clarion sound system

3litre head

turbo smart boost controller

autometer boost gauge

custom k&n cold air intake right into turbo

1000CCA high performance dry cell battery

---

coming in next 4 weeks

35% all round tinting

r33 top mount intercooler

let me know anyway.

fuel is very bad becuase I floor it all the time... but driving from qld to vic.. i was getting 500km per 60l but that was doing 130km the whole time... at 3300 rpm, where 100km/h is only 2000rpm.

rust not a problem at all.

when your buying if its a 3ltr u wont have a problem, but a 2.4 make sure its had head work. Also heaps of them are accident damage. Umm.. also, diesels last forever but cost heaps to maintain, so make you get a well maintained one or you will be in for big bucks.

Since having mine the main expense was the head.. then after that i had most belts and hoses replaced just due to age. Also a CV joint boot needed replacing but they break when something from the road flies up and hits them. Other than that I got a well maintained 2.4 with full recaro interior and it has been great and only costs $550 a year to insure (and im only 19).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...