Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, sadly ive had an accident dori styles were i spun 180 straight into a power pole.

It was a bit of a wake up call for me and have chosen to stop my VIP.A31 project and save up and buy a house.

In doing so I am going to be selling a complete setup that a cefiro needs to handle some serious power, as i was going to place a VH45 twin turbo in my baby. :)

Q45 AFM

CUSCO STRUT BRACES (FRONT AND REAR)

KEI OFFICE COILOVERS

S15 HUBS

32 GTR DIFF

32 GTR HALF SHAFTS + HUBS AND HAND BRAKE CABLES/ASSEMBLY

32 GTR TAIL SHAFT

33 GTR BREMBOS (100% BEBUILT WITH BRAND NEW SEALS, PAINTED GOLD)

33 GTR DISCS

33 GTST GEAR BOX (REBUILT, also have everything needed to turn an auto into a manual)

18" SSR P1 PROFESOR WHEELS (BRAND NEW WHEELS & TYRES)

20"SABER WHEELS (BRAND NEW WHEELS & TYRES)

so in time these are all going to be unloaded but as for now I JUST NEED A BOOT LID :)

Thx

Macca...

Edited by KICKIN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131235-deserate-need-boot-lid/
Share on other sites

pics and size/offsets of the work meisters!

u have pm

there not work miester there ssr P1 professor

2 totally different brands there :O

http://www.wheelspecs.com/specs/wheelmodels/1023

SSR P1 PROFESSORS VS WORK MEISTER S1

As you can see the SSR's (2 piece) shit all over the works

post-7135-1156254389.jpg

post-7135-1156254950.jpg

Edited by KICKIN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers fellas, I got a price for a r33 gtst box was 1500 including post and thought it was too cheap  
    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
×
×
  • Create New...