Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Or Jun Cam Gears? (scratch That I Ordered Tomei's)


Recommended Posts

Just buy them anyway & use the extra few hp to your advantage.

Mind you at 63 seconds for the short track, can I suggest some tyre & suspension work first?

Agreed! Suspension setup before power for the track. + driver mods too.

What do mean 'just buy them'? Can I use them with the Poncams later?

Damn you lot, I havent the money for this handling stuff :P

I will get Sydneykids Bilstein kit and Nismo front and rear swaybars and strut braces when I have the money. And if I scrap my idea of getting the Do Luck kit, I could get all that handling stuff very soon.

No they don't. But the lobe centres on the cam are different to the Nissan ones.

To change the timing belt you have to take the water pump out. Given how cheap they are it is one of those may as well do it jobs.

You dont have to take out the pump to change the timing belt,although its easier when everythings off..

Topaz have you ever changed a timing belt?

If you haven't got the proper tools I'd just let Ken do it for you :P

Topaz have you ever changed a timing belt?

If you haven't got the proper tools I'd just let Ken do it for you :P

My dad has done it many times before (he's also a Fitter/Turner by trade) and he thinks we don't need a timing light :P

Everyone else thinks for RB engines to use a timing light!

Ok guys here is the deal HKS cam gears only have a 3 bolt locking system for the adjustment and they tend to wear out on the tooth section from the cam belt alot faster than any other cam gears on the market.

As a rule i use Tomie cam gears because they have a 4 bolt system and sometimes a 5 bolt system for locking they adjustment up on some vehicles. This is extreemly important at high revs as we all no what happens if your cams move at 8000rpm's...... big damage to your engine. Tomie also have the better of the durilium manufacturing and in my experience seem to last alot longer than its competitors...

At the end of the day its personal choice but i hope that some of this helps in your decisison.

Take care and good luck.

yeah thats some good info, but my question can u make more power by just changing cams? or are they only good when coupled with other mods?

Yes, should give you a decent power gain even with a relatively stock car. I know poncams, HKS step 1 etcs are usually designed so that they can be run with a stock computer and give a decent gain.

My dad has done it many times before (he's also a Fitter/Turner by trade) and he thinks we don't need a timing light :P

Everyone else thinks for RB engines to use a timing light!

I did my own timing belt, and for the price of a new engine over a timing light guess which one I'd choose.

P.S. Do please do your water pump at the same time, for 140bux or whatever they are it's well worth it. My Water pump died, so I did my timing belt (again) for the extra money.

Yes, should give you a decent power gain even with a relatively stock car. I know poncams, HKS step 1 etcs are usually designed so that they can be run with a stock computer and give a decent gain.

designed to run on stock ecu map ------> no

gain power on stock ecu? -------> no

will plugs foul very quickly using standard ecu and these cams ------> yes

will fuel ecconomy be crap using standard ecu -------> yes

Should I get a power FC first ---------> yes

Also on the HKS cam gear wearing out myth. How many worn out HKS cam gears has anyone seen, can we count 30? if not its not even statistically valid. I say nothing wrong with them in fact they are alot easier to adjust than the tomie ones too, I've had both I'd personally buy the HKS ones or something similar next time round (2c)

If you are thinking about new cams at any stage you can give the adustable pulleys a miss as the Poncams (To use but one example) have different centres to the stock items & you don't get such a gain from playing around with them.

Sorry disagree about the poncams not benifiting 'greatly' from being able to alter the cam timing with adjustable gears.Along with many others I have experienced the benifit of doing so on both stock and group A turbos on the RB26.

In partnership with adjustments to the timing and fuel maps changes can be made to the power curve and boost response.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...