Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

What dyno was it?

On a Dyno logic one, I've seen an R34 GTX-T series 2 get 169rwkw running about 12psi, stock ECU and CES 3" Exhaust (split dumps), auto. A series one auto R34 GT-T with nothing but K&N panel filter, stock boost and an Apexi Cat-back 3" exhaust do 147rwkw. Neither car had front mounts.

Mine has more than just exhaust and boost so I won't post mine.

175.1rwkw with 3" turbo back exhaust & Just Jap 600x300 front mount.

Stock boost & computer, manual box.

edit - Mine seems a little high going by the above numbers... suppose it just comes down the dyno I suppose.... I'd like to think I have a heathy motor :)

Edited by Bluprint

Wow these are some high figures! I was only hoping to get about 170-180rwkw with turboback exhaust, fmic, 13psi and pod.

I just fitted a full exhaust on Sat and I must say the difference is huge. I'll see if I can get a dyno run in for you.

Managed to get 176rwkw with my stock turbo, but the timing was being pulled due to overboost retard. Had I realised exactly what was happeneing at the time would have been able to drop the boost and probably make more power.

Manual Box

3" Split dump/front, 3" Blitz cat back

Pod with heat sheild and standard snorkel

Standard ECU

Standard IC

Stock Boost

2 dyno runs with identical results - 168rwkw

Edited by PAV34

From memory;

100% stock = 147 rwkw

Cat back = 168 rwkw (boost went up 1.5 psi)

Split dump and Magic cat = 183 rwkw (boost went up a little bit more, say 1 psi)

Standard R32GTR intercooler and my own design of 63 mm pipework = no dyno

Power FC, tune and boost up to 10 psi = 205 rwkw

GCG Ball bearing High Flow, 1.5 bar boost, tune + injectors = 248 rwkw

Tomei Poncams, 1.4 bar + tune = 265 rwkw

:) Cheers :laugh:

What dyno was it?

On a Dyno logic one, I've seen an R34 GTX-T series 2 get 169rwkw running about 12psi, stock ECU and CES 3" Exhaust (split dumps), auto. A series one auto R34 GT-T with nothing but K&N panel filter, stock boost and an Apexi Cat-back 3" exhaust do 147rwkw. Neither car had front mounts.

Mine has more than just exhaust and boost so I won't post mine.

Yeah mine was the one with the Apexi cat back and panel filter pulling 147kw atw from a Dyno Logic dyno at our SAU dyno night. Apparently it was reading lower for everyone that had previously dynoed on a Dyno Dynamics...so as SK predicted...with catback...*should* read somewhere closer to 160 for stock with catback only?? :blink:

SK; is your motor stock standard?

Other that the mods above, I also ported it, then volume matched and polished the combustion chambers. I used a standard headgasket with o'rings around the combustion chambers. That's it for when I had it. I sold it 3 years ago, don't know what been done since.

:blink: cheers :)

Shhh n15m0; my car is stock.... :(

Anyways; got off the dyno on Friday with 225.31rwkw @ 10psi of boost... had a boost leak issue (will post up a proper thread about it later today).

Funny thing is that it shoots to 18psi by 4,500rpm - holds till 5,500rpm then slowly drops back to 10psi by 7,200rpm. 1 bar of boost was reached by 3,500rpm. Pulls like a motherF' when the boost kicks in; just not up high :/

New boost controller for me; and maybe some welding!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
    • Reading all this... hurts lol. I have an ENR34 5MT and I paid an inflated USA price for the car alone, had to do tons of preventative maintenance past that, and so I'm over $30K USD into the car already and haven't even touched power.  I wanted to +t it. Not even trying to make GTR numbers, I'd be happy with 250hp.  Can I get away with paying much less to make that happen?
×
×
  • Create New...