Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, so I have most of my plumbing back together, all bar the small (8mm?) hose that connects next to the bottom radiator hose on the block. Where does this hose connect to in the system?

Also, anyone got English instructions for the D1 breather tank as I lost my instruction sheet (even if it was in japanese)

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/131935-what-is-this-hose/
Share on other sites

It's where the bottom hose fits the block on the rear side of it. I don't have a pic unfortunately. I figure that it goes in a loop to the t/body and into the runners for the plenum (ath the front end of the plenum on the top) Problem is that my new subzero plenum has the water lines blocked off. Will this cause problems if I am making sense?

the hose that is part of the throttle and bleeder system that runs off the back of the thermo housing goes up into the plenum around the injectors, then out the back of the plenum to the turbo ... you must keep this hooked up.

that's what I thought it was. Much appreciated.

I can't get a straight answer from people as to why coolant is required to go through the plenum around the injectors. But this subzero plenum has a plug on one side screwed in and some sealant blocking the back end that goes to the turbo line. So basically, it wasn't flowing coolant on it's last car and does it really need to? Cheers

I can't get a straight answer from people as to why coolant is required to go through the plenum around the injectors.
I imagine it's designed to keep the inlet runners warm, thereby improving and maintaining the vapourisation of the fuel.

I have a baby T3 that has a bigger front wheel.

The water line from that is now tee'd into my heater lines.

The small hose behind the bottom radiator hose (going into block) now connects to my breather tank.

I have been told that it's for cold start only to have the water in those runners and is better to leave dry. Should be set now.

I have been told that it's for cold start only to have the water in those runners and is better to leave dry. Should be set now.

if you could get a better explaination about this statement i would be insterested..

as for cold starts the water is cold, what would cold water do for the injectors on a cold start???

--been looking into running a bleeder tank on my car too.. good to see it works hooking it up here

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...