Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey peeps

My tacho and Apexi rsm are showing slightly different readings which vary up to 800rpm in the top end of the rpm range, im curious what a the standard rpm limiter is on an rb20det?

Ive been told 7500rpm but ive also heard 8200rpm??

My speedo is out due to 17' rims n 235 tyres etc, im just curious on wether the RSM or standard tacho is better to go on for the rpms (ie when i want to shift), funnily enough i hit the limiter and the rsm shows 7500rpm and the tacho shows 8200-8300rpm, so i couldnt figure it out by hitting the limiter either hahaha

Anyone know the standard rpm limiter and why the rsm or tacho is out?

Thanks all

Regards

Jaz

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132239-rb20-rpm-limiter/
Share on other sites

Red LINE on an rb20 is 7500 according to the manual (and tacho), but that doesnt mean thats the LIMITER neccessarily...

My rb20 makes power at 8000rpm (tacho/dyno reading) due to the larger turbo, so reving up there is quiet pointful for me but i would agree useless on a stock turbo which is what im sure you are refering to.

Thanks for the help Gary, based on what your idea's are the rsm is more accurate thus the turbo is a little less laggy (than tacho/dyno reading) and the rev limit is abit lower (7500 instead of 8200).

  • 1 month later...

G'day to Jazza if you see this thread! How's it going mate?

My rev limiter seems to be around 8000rpm? I dont rev the car out that much usually but I occasionally find it if the wheels are spinning. Can the stock internals handle this ok? I would've thought the revlimiter would be closer to 7000rpm?

sam (dr drift) remapped my ECU and the previous (stock) rev limit was 7900.

then he raised it to 8800...:)

but on the dyno he revved it to 8000rpm and is has the same power at 8000 as it does at 5300, with only an rb25 turbo

and with max power at 6500, power doesnt drop off THAT fast

usefull to be able to rev the crap out of it for drift, but thats about it.

Edited by salad

Rb20s need revs and boost to make power, everyone knows that so the longer you can safely hold it the better id say (in terms of how quick your goin, its not goin to be better for the motor hahaha)

I have learnt that the speedo and tacho seem to be close together

ie if speedo says 50kms it the tacho will say 3000rpm, if rsm says 50kms on it the rsm will say 3000rpm. Ive found the rsm from the dyno is perfect in terms of speed, so im using that as my rpm gauge aswell...

The speedo seems to be out more and more the faster you get, but you should note i have different rims/tyres to manufactor specs and thats probably why my speedo is out!

From the RSM i hit the limiter at 7500rpm :) If your usin 8800rpm you have balls unless you have a built motor LOL

Hope that helps Cogs

Edited by jazza08
The speedo seems to be out more and more the faster you get

that because it will be out by.. lets say 10%. so at 50kmh it will be out by 5kmh, but at 150kmh it will be out by 15kmh. speedo's are usually out by percantage, not by a fixed kmh.

jazza, i'd say that your rsm is accurate. your tacho needle probably just bounces up to that sort of rpm, but the motor isn't actually going that high.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...