Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have just changed the cam belt and bearings on my R32 GTR . Cam sprockets, crank sprocket, harmonic balancer all line up with the correct marks. But when i checked the ignition timing it was showing 35 BTDC at idle. I had to adjust the crankangle sensor fully to the right to get 20 BTDC (prior to changing the belt the crankangle sensor locking bolts were always around the centre of the slot) So any idears why the ignition timing could change 15 degrees after changing the cam belt "Please"

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132312-gtr-ignition-timing/
Share on other sites

Thanks for the reply, I tried a spare cas. (locating pins are all good) same result ! The cam timing is spot on, cam belt marks, sprocket marks, and front cover marks all line up ????

if the car is cold your timing will be way advanced, this is normal ignition correction at idle for cold conditions. make sure it's warmed up.

if you're doing it when the car is at full operating temp and still getting 35 degrees, then you're right on, it is probably something else.

Some timing lights seem to double the reading by firing the strobe too early. Have no idea why or how it could happen.

If this is the case, the car should feel a bit sluggish because of the late timing you have set (you effectively have timing at 10 rather than 15).

As a check, insert a spark lead between #1 coilpack and #1 spark plug and check the timing the "old-fashioned" way.

Good one !! That sounds very possible, as the timing light is new and i am using it for the first time. I will check with the old t/light when i refit all the bits. It has to be something like that as everything else checks out

swap the direction on the pick-up on the light.

you havent some how managed to mix up the lower cover with the mark on it?

if all you did was a cambelt. the cas will "sit" nicly in one spot. just leave it there.

worst case you will need to find tru tdc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...