Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

maybe the Ferodo DS3500? but i've heard there not very good road pads. You'd be the first i've heard that wasn't impressed with the 2500's though.

Apparently Prodjuct Mu pads are good, but again, only going on what I've read around the place on here.

theres RaceBrakes RB74's that alot of people use an recomend but say once over heated once there not real crash hot?

check out www.nismo.com.au too, they have a few options with brake pads an different temp ranges

hope this has been of some help, Cheers

Berin

I too am surprised about the comments with the DS2500's???

Due to current brake set up i am using endless NA-R's which i have found to hold up quiet well. They warm up quiet quick and will hold on for quiet some time before getting some ever so slight fade but usally only after 15min full pelt around the track. They would be a good pad for super sprint and then drive home on them road use.

I've swapped from RB74 to DS3000, found the DS3000 much better so far (but thats what i was expecting). I have also used the DS2500's on the M3 Driver training day, they run them in thier driver training cars on the track at philip island, they coped a beating all day, lap after lap for like 20-30 laps at a time with no fade or problems.... maybe the 2500's you had were fake or a dud set? find it hard to belive the bendix stuff was better.

Yep i have the project Mu level 900 on the front bendix ultima on rear, nismo steel braided lines, standard gtr calipers and RDA slotted standard size rotors and lots and lots of brake ducts.

I can get through a 20 minute track session with just the smallest amount of fade, pedal drops about 20mm. And the ambient temp was 40 C +.

BUT they dont come cheap.

  • 2 weeks later...

well.....hawk black = race pads = not for road use.

Thats how I see it, I am happy with their performance for race use, been using them all year, they seem better than the SBS pads I used before that. But race pads is a different topic I think.

  • 3 months later...

As a street/track pad my only experience has been with Ferodo DS2000 and have dfound them to be very good, but it has been my only experience.

PS-Sorry to bump something a few months old

Edited by JZX91-2JZ

I have project Mu pads and rotors on the front, they take a while to get up to temp, and are average when they are cold, but on the track they are great! I have only had the slightest brake fade, and that is after a lot of 200kmh stops.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...