Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so I bought my car knowing the engine was run without oil to the point of the exhaust cam seizing. This was the result after an aftermarket oil hose fitting un-screwed itself.

After some good advice from some members on here I have decided to ditch the old engine for a possible rebuild down the track... Will also come in handy for spares.

My question is this- For the amount of time the engine was run with no oil (presumably with some boosting?)

Is there any chance there would be some minor damage made to the turbo bearing?

Turbo in question is an HKS T04e

Also could anyone help with the hp rating of my turbo? Only numbers I can see is .50 wich is the A/R of the front cover yes?

Every other T04e I have seen for RB20/25 has either the .56 or .60 front cover.. Is my turbo designed for slightly quicker spooling compared these, While sacrificing on overall power?

Edited by Drift_Limo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/132658-turbo-oil-feed-starvation/
Share on other sites

You have asked 2 questions;

1. Is the turbo damaged? No idea, no way to tell, waste of time guessing. Take it to turbo workshop and have it checked.

2. HKS don’t publish compressor maps. Last time I bothered looking, there were 6 or 7 specifications of Garrett “T04E”. Outputs ranging from 350 bhp to around 500 bhp, so take your pick.

:ermm: cheers :(

I would guess that if the turbo was being boosted without oil long enough for the engine to run out of oil and seize the camshaft, the turbo will be shagged, and thet may be the least of your problems, for the $150 or so, i would rip the sump off and have a quick look at the bearings

Suggest you locate the CHRA ID tag number, and post up that, along with any numbers off the housings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
×
×
  • Create New...