Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 102
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

we have a new winner. the escudo on street tyres. 50.768 seconds. and it could be better. i'd say you could possibly get low 50's, or possibly even a high 49 is you have reflexes of steel. then i drove a '00 gtr with a bit of work done. did a 55 something. it handled like a blue whale in concrete after driving the escudo.

Times I've done so far ...

Mine's R34 GT-R - Fully Modded - 0'50.759

Amuse CArbon R - Fully Modded - 0'51.443

'97 R33 GTR (Non Vspec) - Full Modded - 0'52.188

Thats the only skylines one's I've done that are worth mentioning, only other Nissan one thats been faster than those is R92CP with a - 0'48.218

EDIT - sorry some of these times were with full slicks :no: But no NOS :laugh:

Edited by ookami
fark nice time for a 33gtr!! am watching bathurst now and its got me hell in the mood for time attack!

Yeah ws flicking over while the pace car was out :( Took about 15 goes to get the laptimes down to that. Do people do the laps themselves or use the B-Spec driver? Cause my driver is shit :whistling:

come on guys, sports tyres only!!!!! and this thread is for gt4 only!!

tsukuba super lap IRL is for (JDM) tuned road cars on sports tyres.

I can't remember a twin engined Suzuki Escudo (Vitara 4WD) Pikes Peak (Dirt Trial) car being sold for road use either... just to make it clear, because my earlier post about that car seems to have been mis-interpreted. That is not a tuned road car. Pikes Peak specials are some of the most highly developed and specialised race cars around. If the game calls it a race car, rally car, or dirt trial car, its fairly obvious it's not a normal road car, isn't it?

R34 GTR N1 Vspec2 (The one with the carbon bonnet from the factory...*drools*) I did a 54.239...but having read about the LSD making things worse I may be in for somthing lower soon!

Oh and Harry this car makes a bit over 800hp with the same turbo and stuff as your R32 so maybe try and track one of these down :(

The biggest problem I have is crappy brakes :wave: what settings to people run on the brakes?? Or do you not bother touching them?

R34 GTR N1 Vspec2 (The one with the carbon bonnet from the factory...*drools*) I did a 54.239...but having read about the LSD making things worse I may be in for somthing lower soon!

Oh and Harry this car makes a bit over 800hp with the same turbo and stuff as your R32 so maybe try and track one of these down :(

The biggest problem I have is crappy brakes :wave: what settings to people run on the brakes?? Or do you not bother touching them?

yeah I've used an R34 GTR (base model GTR) and got just over 800bhp. I've since been trying the full race LSD and setting the front up loose and rear tight, and it seems to improve the traction without hurting the handling, but my lap times don't really show it...

ok, well cranked up the old '00 r34 gtr last night. got a 52.936 but can definately go faster. it was about 1am this morning and i was tired as anything. the handling could use some serious tuning though. i reakon just setup how it is i could manage a mid 52. a few laps after i did that best one i was 0.3xx faster at the second split over that 52.936, but i lost it on the last corner.

going to try some more cars tonight, such as the amuse carbon r, an n1 gtr, and a rx7. going to try to get to the low 52's, or even a high 51 would be nice.

Edited by mad082
ok, well cranked up the old '00 r34 gtr last night. got a 52.936 but can definately go faster. it was about 1am this morning and i was tired as anything. the handling could use some serious tuning though. i reakon just setup how it is i could manage a mid 52. a few laps after i did that best one i was 0.3xx faster at the second split over that 52.936, but i lost it on the last corner.

going to try some more cars tonight, such as the amuse carbon r, an n1 gtr, and a rx7. going to try to get to the low 52's, or even a high 51 would be nice.

that inspired me to get my 822bhp R34 GTR V SpecII back on the track to see if I could beat my earlier 53.007. I did three 52 second laps this afternoon - 52.894, 52.821 and a 52.693! I don't think I can go any faster - that was a pretty damn good lap!

Edited by hrd-hr30

i got another 52 second lap last night, but it was slower than my best. the pressure gets to me and i lose it on the last corner. after i did that lap the next lap i was 0.3 up at the 2nd split, but screwed up the last corner. after doing the amount that i have, i think the best i could do is about a 52.7, but i would have to do a perfect lap, so i doubt its going to happen.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...