Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just had a quote on my parents car for repair to the air con. Its not puttin any cold air out what so ever. Here is the list on what needs to be done and prices. If anyone can help out on what they think the prices and parts are worth that would be great. Just trying to get a second opinion.

* EF Ford Falcon

* removethe dash and replace evaporator and to fit a reconditioned compressor, tx valve and reciever drier and fully flush system

* Labour 9 hours @ 74.55 = 738.05

* Recon Compressor $ 494.00

* Reciever Dryer $30.00

* TX Valve $55.18

* System Flush $80.00

* Regas and evac $90.90

* Heater hoses $30.00

Evaporator $145.45

Tx valve and flushing of system are required for warranty and incase of metal particles in system

GST $159.65

TOTAL $1756.13

***If anyone can either say yay or nay on these prices or mention that we are getting shafted that would be awesome.

Thanks for your time

M

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133529-air-con-quote-a-little-over-the-top/
Share on other sites

I Had very similar work done to my air con unit as it was stuffed. Had all the things

you had done except for the evaporator and hoses (not sure what the evaporator is for?).

Anyway they had the car for two days and charged me $1050. :O

ok what is the actual fault?

ceized compressor?

leaking evapourator?

leaking tx?

drier gets replaced when compressor is done to have warranty but usually when you replcae the drier we recommend you replace the condensor which is infront of the radiator (removal of bumper which is about 1.5 to 2 hours ) to replace the evapourator you need to remove the entire dash board, center console and heater box which takes between 4 - 7 hours depending on how mucn of a PITA it is being!

have the done any checks of any sort ie with a/c guages? temporary regas with leak detectant dye to locate any leaks?

ef & el falcons are prone to leaking condensors along poor welds on let end tanks when we replace the replace the compressor & Drier as well, because of the change in a/c perfromance which if you don not replace the compressor you risk compressor failure which brings you back to square one because of debris being pumped around the system at my

work we charger about

1200 i think i cannot remember but thats aroundish

for a condensor and compressor replacement.

evappourator and compressor will be around the 1500- 1600 because we would also replace the condensor to avoid any comebacks. it is strange they want to replace the tx valve. we generally clean and re fit them. unless they have been working incorectly or look shabby we then only replace it.

to have the system flushed should really only be done if compressor has failed and there is deffinent evidence of deris.

i find it strange that they havent mentioned replacing the condensor as they cannot be flushed due to the fact they are parrallel flow ie have end tanks. debris will sit any where in them and if you cannot pass flush through them they will not ever be clean and eventually will cause failure of the compressor

any ways this is my opinion only but i believe you are being taken for a ride because they do not seem to have a idea of the type of a/c system

cheers!

Thanks skybee, thats an awesome write up, i have passed that onto my parents and by looking at your reply i think a second opinion will be a good idea.

Thanks for your time

Cheers

Matt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah nice idea, you mean to suction it to the gauges? I hadn't thought of that.
    • A few suggestions: Do you have the option of retarding your exhaust cam gear to bring the power band over to the left? VCT would be turned off after you make peak torque, you see the power/torque will decay faster with it left on all the way to the limiter Once VCT is turned off, you'll find the motor will take a bit more timing being ramped in Send its mum, more boost! Of course, depends on your exhaust pressure.
    • Tow a boat... people won't know wtf is going on 🤣 
    • I was back on the dyno again yesterday after completely revamping my methanol injection system. I was making 440kw at 19psi. Great, this is more then I was making last summer with my old meth system at that pressure, and I figured it would be smooth sailing up to 30+psi. We continued increasing from there and by 25psi, I had only hit 455kw. Dyno sadly lost utility power at this point and I left. We seemed to be on course to hit the same power wall as last summer (477kw@27psi). This is a built RB25 S1 stroked to a 2.8. Built and ported head with Kelford 272/262 cams. Precision 6466 Turbo. Tuner last year believed the power wall is a mix of RPM limitations (Hydro lifters/Limit set at 7600RPM) and fueling. With my new meth system, we're seeing zero knock now but it still won't go up.  What else can I do at this point? Here's my train of thought.  - It's clear from the dyno graph that I would easily make power to 8500+RPM but I'm limited to 7600RPM. I could risk increasing my limiter, but hydro lifters have me worried. What are my options here besides going NEO head or solid lifter conversion? I'm rocking a 1.05AR turbine on my 6466. Would dropping down to a .84 help shift that power down in anyway? - We're only seeing roughly a 30kw difference at the top end with VCT on or off. Is this normal? I want to confirm VCT is working properly. - Should I look into other cam options?  - Should I just keep increasing boost and see if she wakes up later on? I would expect to hit 600rwkw around 35psi with my 6466.   
×
×
  • Create New...