Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yes, i know the rounded off square templates... a square but with smooth corners.... anyway, i noticed somewhere on this forum, that you can cut it with an angel grinder and fit 6.5" speakers in the front, is there a big bifference between the 6" and 6.5" speakers? coz im leaning towards the 6.5" speakers... only coz they are bigger and it gives me some more work to do with my spare free time (instead of sitting in my room on the pc).

Cheers

Marc

6.5 on a custom base works well. saves hacking up the oringinals and the fact that when you do hack iit up they are no longer sealed so you end up with a bit of cancellation.

Ok so what would be the better way to go... 6 or 6.5" ???? i want the best sounds possible from the front speakers coz thats where i always am... rear ones will be 6x9 or 6.5 depends on what fits.

Cheers

Marc

if that is the case then you may wish to invest is sound deadening as well ( I sell this) that way you are geeting the best form what you have.

alos add an amplifier to it. that will help dramatically.

in regard to the rears - 6.5" - dunno where you guys get 6x9s from. teamed with a small sub it will work well.

R34's have 6.5" front and rear, when I replaced mine they fitted in straight in no problem. 6X9's are shit, don't bother.

Definately get some amps if you can afford it.

But as Chris said, good quality sound deadening will probably give you much better sound improvement than anything else, especially in the front doors (it makes a HUGE difference). Just make sure it's installed properly.

What you should do is fully sound deaden the front doors, both on the inner and outer skin. Once that is done then install diffusers and make up baffles to run 6.5" drivers. Chris can do all this for you if you're up in his neck of the woods.

The R33 Skyline doors look like this when done. I know it's not an R34 but it gives you an general idea of what I'm talking about.

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

Well, that is how we do them anyway. :D

thanks for the help guys, after much thinking into the car and licensing costs, etc. i have now decided to buy an r33 Turbo Automatic car (1995 with only 44,000k's on the clock) all the manual ones had 80,000+ and this one has 2 years warranty. So the above guide should help me out alot (thanks guys!) oh and last questions... splits or no splits?? and any tips for getting the sound deadening material behind the inner door frame??

Cheers

Marc

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...