Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well, this is my second attempt as what i tried to post the first time just f*cked up and i lost it all, so here goes....

i just bought a VL the other day, and its all good, except it has a few minor issues, most of which were fixed by a good clean. now when i cleaned it and it came up a treat, but there were still a few minor htings, mostly interior plastics broken etc. the one thing i did try to fix was the boot release. it normally sits in a little round retainer thingy...(yes, thats the technical term) and it was just hanging there, and i tried to put it back in, but when i did the switch just popped apart. so i left it sittin there for a minute, tryin to see how the switch worked, and i realised that in its current popped apart state, the positive and negative were linked, thus explaining why the wires were gettin quite warm. now i worked this out, pulled the wires out, put it all back together, and thats ok, except now it doesnt work. i pulled the wires out again and just touched them together instead of using the switch, still got nothing, the boot wont pop.

first questions, what have i fried?

now when u get an electrical problem, check fuses first, but i dont know which fuse to check, or if there even is one for this. so my second question, where is the fuse if there is one?

on the path to discovering i have no idea which fuse i was looking for, the first place i went for was the drivers side, near the kick panel, where fuses always are. i pulled the cover off, and i saw that the back of the panel had the little diagram, tellin u what is what, and i couldnt see anything on there, so i was just gonna start pullin fuses to check if any were blown, but to my surprise, when i went to look inside, there was no fuses. no board, no fuses, nothin, just bits of the wiring loom.

so, third question, is there meant to be a board of fuses in there?

regarding the fuses, there is still the black box under the bonnet, but i dunno if ever fuse is accounted for in there.

cheers,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133710-anyone-own-a-vl/
Share on other sites

no there are not fuses under the dash kickpanel (only in pre vl models they were under there) its all in the engine bay passenger side corner. the boot release soleniod is probably stuffed they always stuff up. go to the boot and pull the wire off the boot release solenoid and check its getting power when the button is pressed. if it is then solenoid is dead, and they are like $5 from a wreckers. if it doesnt get power then the wiring is not connected correctly. there isnt a fuse for the boot release button that i can recall (havent owned a vl for over 2 years so my memory is about rusty) :P

Edited by CruiseLiner
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133710-anyone-own-a-vl/#findComment-2478937
Share on other sites

its ok, the problems fixed itself.

next query, where would i be lookin for numbers to ID the gearbox? it feels very very smooth, and i havent driven any other manual VLs, but in some cases it even feels smoother than a friends R34... so im thinkin it may have been swapped at some point, possibly to a skyline box. its unlikely, and it may just have been well maintained, but it cant hurt to check.

last question for now, whats the easiest way to see what clutch/what condition clutch is in, not just by feel, as my experience with different clutches is quite limited. its feels slightly heavy, nothin like a twin plate, but still a bit heavier than the other cars i've driven (again havent driven any other VLs, so might be normal) and it also needs to be pressed right up against the firewall, or very close to it, to fully dissengage the clutch, which i thought were signs of an aftermarket/heavy duty clutch

thanks for the help guys,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/133710-anyone-own-a-vl/#findComment-2481611
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...