Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I've searched through various posts to try and find a solution but im just not sure if any of the other posts have the same problem.

I currently have a

1989 R32 gtst

Rb20det

3" hiflo cat and bee-r exhaust system (standard dump pipe)

HKS pod filter

Standard Bov

HKS spark plugs (havent changed since buying car as in good condition)

Standard Intercooler

Standard BOOST 9psi (spikes 10-11)

Since buying the car 5mnths ago it has been fine but for the last 2 weeks the car has been excessively backfiring,popping all over the place ( during gear changes, only when i come off throttle).

Its not missing during any part of the rev range but when i start the car its very lumpy, like barely wants to start running but then speeds up and idles fine.

It seems to be starting to lack power under full throttle and im abit worried about if it might be leaning out but i dont know how to check to see if it is.

Someone drove beside me the other day after following me up a hill and asked if my car was leaning out? They did say i wasnt blowing any black smoke under full throttle etc?

Im only a 2/3yr apprentice mechanic for kmart tyre and auto and I dont have the amount of $$ to get it on a dyno so was wondering if theres any way i can check stuff to see if certain things are working ok? my clutch is starting to slip alil so i have to save for that aswell so if anyone can help with any idea's or ways to help try and sort out whats going on would be greatly appreciated.

Many Thanks

Pete (BOOSTA) :cool:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134095-standard-r32-gtst-problems-plz-help/
Share on other sites

okay, you work for a kmart tyre and auto... do you have a pressure gauge at all around the workshop? if so, i would T that into the fuel line (between the pump and the regulator) and see what sort of pressures you are getting... sounds like it's possibly a fuel pump drama, might be getting towards the end of its life?

Thanks azzurra is there anywhere in specific to T into the line? and if i do what sort of numbers should i be looking at as ok?

The fuel pump im guessing will probably be standard like the rest of the car aswell. Thanks for your input!

to check mine, what we did was get a 'T' fitting.. on one prong we connected the gauge, to one side we connected a short length of fuel hose, and on the other side, we connected the fuel line from the pump to that (you disconnect this from the regulator, and replace it with the short piece of pipe that you just added to the T-piece)

then take it for a drive around the block, under normal driving conditions, and then under boost etc (get someone to come with you to read the gauge) and report back what you find....

from memory (don't quote me on this though, as it's only off the top of my head.... perhaps someone else can help out here) a 'healthy' figure will be around 3 bar (around 45psi) or so?

There is a bit of argument over what is best..

Spray on electrical contact cleaner is probably the best bet.. or some metho with a cotton bud or something - but just be really careful as the element is pretty delicate and can be snapped off.

The AFM effects idle, and also rich/lean mixtures, and some oil from the intake sometimes build up over time, which can muck around with that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...