Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Gearbox Into R32

lwboosted
 Share

Recommended Posts

=premo= Mentor

=premo=

Posted
Posted

I've got a 2 way diff and I'd want the backlash set right so I'd have to get my diff man to set it up but I'm trying to find out which ratio is going to be best for drift with my new engine or if I should just leave it how it is.

Thanks guys

  • Replies 188
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Simon-S14 Grand Master

Simon-S14

Posted
Posted

stock gtst is 4.3, which i have and ive got no probs with holding 3rd or 4th with that, i i had even more torque again (like what you have planned) i would change my diff to a 4.1

3.9 isnt really needed, bugger all difference between a 4.1 and a 3.9 anyway and 3.9's are a lot harder to come by.

  • 3 weeks later...
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Conversion was successful today, took many hours a bit of swearing, welding, tapping, grunting. Most annoying part was that the rear section of my tailshaft was 17mm too short!! wtf?! will be taking that back to be rectified during the week.

280kmh dash is sweet and my guesstimations for 3.9 diff + 17T Navara cog were correct, speedo reads high by 10kmh :(

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Nope, I'll try to remember to take some next time it's on the hoist.

Basically got some flatbar, cut 2 pieces, marked the holes, drilled them, bolted it up to the car with the flatbar in between, tac'd it, took it off and welded it.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Nope, I'll try to remember to take some next time it's on the hoist.

Basically got some flatbar, cut 2 pieces, marked the holes, drilled them, bolted it up to the car with the flatbar in between, tac'd it, took it off and welded it.

wow complicated. :/

I slide the gearbox rubber mount towards the front of the car so that the middle hole in the std xmember lined up with the rear chassis holes. Then simply drill new holes in the gearbox so you can bolt the gearbox to the rubber mount.

I then bought a $2 piece of 4mm plate, drilled 3 holes, bolted the front chassis hole up to the plate directly then the xmember's middle hole bolts through the bar in to the chassis. The xmembers rear hole requires a nut with a little locktight.

Slap a little sound deadening spray crap so it matches the rest of the floor pan and its extremely difficult to pick.

I'll grab some pics soon.

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted

Hey, i posted a question last week about my geabox getting stuck in reverse. The cause of it was that the speedo sender shaft actually snapped and left the nylon gear (and half the shaft) in the gearbox.

Ive got an R33 box in an R32 and have done the Navara sender and standard r33 gear swap.

My question is: How do i ensure that this doesnt happen again? When i installed the navara sender originally, i didnt notice that the shaft was off centre. Has this got something to do with it. Do i have to rotate the sender in the gearbox to a particular position?

I ordered the navara sender for $50 and the R33 nylon gear for $60 from Hornsby Nissan today.

Thanks,

Shaun.

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted (edited)
wow complicated. :D

I slide the gearbox rubber mount towards the front of the car so that the middle hole in the std xmember lined up with the rear chassis holes. Then simply drill new holes in the gearbox so you can bolt the gearbox to the rubber mount.

I then bought a $2 piece of 4mm plate, drilled 3 holes, bolted the front chassis hole up to the plate directly then the xmember's middle hole bolts through the bar in to the chassis. The xmembers rear hole requires a nut with a little locktight.

Slap a little sound deadening spray crap so it matches the rest of the floor pan and its extremely difficult to pick.

I'll grab some pics soon.

That sounds more complicated than my way :) we had a 32gtst w/26 in the shop so just copied that setup but with thicker flat

When you put the nivara drive in did you rotate it 180 degree's and re-slot it?

Nope, my impression was that was for 23T (bigger gear) so it doesn't push as hard against the pinion. My mechanic has been running a standard 17T Navara sender in his 25 box for years with no problems.

Edit: I'm more worried about the funky bends in the brand new speedo cable :/

Edited by bubba
Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted
When you put the nivara drive in did you rotate it 180 degree's and re-slot it?

No i didnt. Why do you do this? Is it so that the larger gear doesnt push as hard on the gear in the box?

I can only assume that the shaft snapped because there was too much lateral force on it. Or it was wabbling around in there.

I suppose another alternative is to just use the Navara gear and have the speedo recalibrated (or live with it).

Thanks,

Shaun.

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted
Mate, so your speedo doesn't work? that explains the steering going heavy after a few mins.

No, No, it only just stopped working. The sender must have only just snapped. The speedo worked ok but i still had no power steering.

Shaun.

Shaun Mentor

Shaun

Posted
Posted
It's just like setting up the spur gear on your r/c car :thumbsup:

^^^I dont understand what that means at all!

Anyway, i did the mod last night and put the sender with the new gear into the box in the new position (180 degrees rotated). When i turn the main shaft in the gearbox, the speedo sender rotates, so i can only assume it worked ok. Fingers crossed. The tutorial from Cubes was soooo handy; thanks mate. I didnt bother about using a circlip on the end of the shaft though. It was an extremely tight tolerance fit, so i dont think it will work its way off. What do you guys reckon?

Shaun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Regardless of neglect or incompetence, fixing either is tedious and annoying. Most of the neglect on my car is definitely rust. I hope I can at least pass inspections later on and they won't fail the car due to slightly corroded hardlines. I was generous with rust converter and wax and it looks ok, most lines in the rear are hard to see properly anyways.  Definitely will test them though to make sure they don't rupture under pressure, in that case the car isn't going anywhere this year.
×
×
  • Create New...