Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If that is the same sensor that gives the stock boost gauge its reading then it's fine. Also does the PFC take note of this sensor?

No it's the one on the centre of the firewall, not the one on the drivers side that sends a signal to the gauges.

Funny looking flat black thing on the brass bracket. I've known a few to have the hose on the under-side break/come off, it wouldn't throw up the check engine light with a PFC but will make your car run like a load of bollocks.

are you sure dan that it will influence the PFC?

as always I'd advise looking at what you have changed recently. in this case Z32 and manual conversion and PFC. now, are your sure the wiring for the Z32 + stock AFM is still intact and ok? If it was shorting out it may have melted some wires further down towards the ecu so it may not be imediately evident at the plug end. watch the voltage at the PFC (via HC sensor check) and then measure it at the plug too with a multi meter.

out of interest was the place that wired up the Z32 the same place that did the tuning?

Well got my car back on saturday. It turned out to be some wire that was for the auto box that was shorting out and causing the timing to jump all over the place. Had occasional increases of 17 degrees!!

Gotta go back to get the z32 reinstalled and a touch up tune tomorrow. I drove it down the coast with a maxed out stock afm and 1 bar of boost and it went great.

nice one abo.

so it was just a bit of dodgo wiring after all. thank god it didn't advance by 17 degrees whilst you were at 6000rpm and full boost down the main straight at EC!! always nice when it's an easy fix :unsure:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...