Jump to content
SAU Community

Jun Cmashaft Kit Reviews.

khezz

By khezz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

khezz Rising Star

khezz

Posted
Posted

Hi all

I am looking at buying a JUN cmashaft kit which comes with heavy duty valve springs and titanium retainers. I am leaning towards the 272/9.7mm on both sides. Does any one know much about these kits? They are listed as a "JUN Stage 2R Camshaft Kit" on a few of the online shops. The reason I looked at them is because the duration and lift is ideal for the power I am chasing and it seems to be good value to.

I know JUN in general are top notch with there gear. But any reviews or "I heard from a friend" would be great. Thank you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134332-jun-cmashaft-kit-reviews/
Share on other sites
CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted (edited)

the jun 272/11.35mm lift ones i got run smaller base circles and do require thicker shims to be made up. i got my shims custom made by precision shims australia

shims cost $195 i think from memory for the 24

EDIT: the 272/9.7 lift have stock base circle so they are fine with stock shims..

http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/cylinder...ft-rb26.html?en

the BC in the chart is the base circle

Edited by CruiseLiner
700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted

Whats the kit worth?

I also am in the hunt for

And have you looked at the Tomie poncams 260 with 9.15 lift.

What power levels are the Jun ones you are looking at, at?

On the Poncams there is no need for heavier springs or retainers...so they say.

But price and supporting mods are also important when it comes to bolt ons.

Cheers

khezz Rising Star

khezz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The price works out to be about $2200 landed to your door step for the kit. So it is good value. From what I have read they should drop straight in. For now I am chasing around 550hp at the wheels and my cut of is set to 9200rpm. I had a long chat with my local head tech. For my purpose he said to use about 270 duration and no more than 10mm lift. That way the engine will breath very well, still idle and perform well at lower revs and i dont need to spend money on the head. Just a general cleanup is all that needed. Any more lift and you need to start looking a major headwork.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

No matter what duration and lift cams you use, RB26 cylinder heads ALWAYS need work. The combustion chamber volumes are never equal, the ports always flow differently and they are undersized (particularly) the exhaust ports.

So don’t let the need for headwork limit your choices, you should do it anyway.

:O cheers :ban:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • djr81
      R32 update from 1990's spec.

      By djr81 · Posted

      New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...