Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I know it's not a big thing, but im pretty novice when it comes to cars and don't want to pay a mechanic to 'change a bulb'. Just wondering if it's as easy as it sounds to remove/replace headlight bulbs in an R32 GTST?

Seems one of mine is dead, so have decided to replace both. I have been told you can remove just the bulb itself, not the whole headlight enclosure, and that it should just 'pop out'.

Anyone that can help, or direct me briefly on how to go about this would be excellent!

Cheers fellas.

EDIT: Does anyone also know what kind of bulbs are used? If so, where to get some? Or more powerful ones?

Edited by RetardedMonkey
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134525-headlight-bulb-change/
Share on other sites

You can get at the bulbs from behind the head light. Trouble is that the battery and stock air box can get in the way. There is a screw on large circular piece that is removed by hand, remove the plug and then a wire circlip that holds the bulb in the light assembly.

For r32gtst's you can get either H1 or H3 bulbs so you are better off removing the dead one and taking it with you to a parts shop. The cars with H1's have the bulb mounted in a carrier that you also need to reuse.

They are common enough bulbs, any parts place will have stock. Just don't get Narva or you'll be changing them again in a year.

If you want more power you can get an aftermarket xenon kit, but its not exactly cheap.

If you have H3C bulbs, follow this guide so you can use the more popular H3 model (which you can get Plus 50's in, etc):

http://www.aus300zx.com/tech/lowbeam/lowbeam.htm

There's nothing available in H3C, they suck.

There's nothing available in H3C, they suck.

buzzz....wrong.

Ive found a bloke here in Adelaide who can sell me pairs of hc3 for around $25 a pair :(

Unfortunatly he is in the US atm, and wont be back till mid Nov.

Edited by Bl4cK32

what I meant was you can only get shitty generic H3C globes. Also I found some riceboy blue ones that were absolutely abysmal in light output.

Anything worthwhile, like Plus 50's that give you more light on the road where you need it, are only available in H3.

Hence my comment about H3C globes fellating the big one.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...