Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So,

I'm looking for a race suit, for two applications, circuit (track days) & go karting.

I know that I don't need a suit for track days, but I need one for go karting, so if I can get one that suits both applications that would be sweet as.

Where should I be looking?

What sort of suits are there available?

Do I need a CAMS approved suit?

Cheers

Jase

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134535-race-suits/
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

For national you need at least 2 layer suit. Ive found my new sparco to be alot more comfortable then the old erg one i shared with my old man.

I think the stuff has got to be FIA approved.

My new sparco suit is upto FIA 2000 stds. Sparco Sprint series.

Edited by r33_racer
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134535-race-suits/#findComment-2581929
Share on other sites

NOTE: Please take this info with a pinch of salt. It is only my experience, and not a definative guide. I take no responsibility for others use of this information.

OK, Here is the info off the top of my head.

First and foremost, there are a few different types of suits.

Single layer - One outer Layer of fire proof material

Dual Layer - Two Layers of fire proof material, One outer, one inner

Triple Layer - Three layers of fire proof material, One outer, two inner.

Single layer is suitable for club events, upto and including motorkhanas, hillclimbs, sprints.

Dual Layer is suitable for anything in the National level of motorsport - Rallys, targa's and the above mentioned stuff - Not including things like V8 supercars.

Triple Layer required for any FIA stuff and international rally's.

There are two standards that are recognised by CAMS and FIA. And that is the 1986 FIA standard and the 2000 FIA standard.

Without this approval on the neck of the suit the suit cannot be used in the events of national and state level.

Apparently the 1986 standard is being phased out, but CAMS has not yet put a due by date, so you may find that most shops are selling these suits at reduced prices.

Next, Suit Material.

There is from what I see, Wool & Nomex.

Wool is a natural fibre and as such has some different properties to that of Nomex, which is a man made material. If you want to find out what they are......google it.

As for which is better, Nomex is more expensive, looks shineier (is that a word?) and feels nice (too me) on.

Wool is less expensive by almost about a third, looks more dull and can be (but not always) itchy on the skin.

For go-karting (racing) you need an abrasive resistant suit, which is made from a polymer like nylon. These suits CANNOT be used in car racing due to the non compliance with the fireproof material requirements.

So for my case a single layer suit will be suitable since I will not be racing go karts, only mucking around in them.

so, there it is.......

A very simple guide/layman explanation of race suits how what where.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/134535-race-suits/#findComment-2588870
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
×
×
  • Create New...