Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well you can get pretty much anything landed in Aus for 10k, but when I did this I found I spent 10k on the car and 20k on the prep not the other way around.

consider cost of

cage

suspension (whatever it has will be too tired)

saftey stuff - extinguishers, tow hooks, kill switches, fuel pump cut, window nets, tailshaft loop

seats & harnesses

wheels and tyres

all new bushes, let alone rose joints or adjustable arms

guages

ecu and tuning

new pads and discs, overhaul calipers.

reco all CV joints (4 on a gtr), tie rod ends, 4x wheel bearings, tail shaft unijoint.

reco starter and alternator

replace all hoses and belts......over 30 hoses on a gtr

all new fluids - coolant, engine oil, gearbox oil, diff oil (x2 gtr), transfer case, attesa fluid, power steer fluid, brake fluid

replacing anything else that is worn out or broken

and hopefully the motor and compression is OK.

only after all that would you have a safe starting point to make something go faster....

I know that I could do the other war around, but I was hoping for a early 1990's GT car that has already had a lot of money spent on cages, seats, gauges, suspension and the rest of it.

My understanding it the cage will be compliant as they follow FIA regulations, so it should have a FIA approval, as will the seats and harnesses.

It may be a pie in the sky idea that I can get a fully setup car, but from the prices I see for import drag/drift prepped cars, I think there would be pleanty of tarmac cars waiting for a good home.

Rather then look at buying out of Japan, you shoudl also consider buying a prepared car out of Europe. Some good buys going around. Right now im tossing up a track only GTSt, what will stop me is my trip OS and the procurement of one of these

cb_1.JPG

:):P;):D

My budget is $20k for a full race spec car. I do not think I am unrealistic in my expectations. I think that a race prepped RWD car from japan could easily be aquired for that money. I have a further $10k to spend on spares and anything that needs fixing.

I have also seen EVO6's going in race trim (rally) for $20k FOB.

Seriously on that budget go buy a 125cc Kart and have some fast fun...I have brought in plenty of race car s from Japan and there is lots to be spent when all is fixed and made safe....i think you may be disappointed with what you end up with on a 20k budget....my current club sprint GTR which was 800000 Yen and loaded with all sorts of goodies now owes me over 50k after 2 years of development/tuning/extra safety gear/slicks etc

I tried a 250cc international superKart, but it was too hard on my back, but the most fun I have ever had on a track. I would prefer to have pannels and a roll cage around me when doing high speed.

I understand that there will need to be money spent, I own a business that will be sponsoring it. I am realistic about costs of owning a car, as I have owned 2 sports sedans many years ago.

I do not see why I cannot pickup a fully race RWD car from japan for my budget that will be fine for club work. I do not intend to do any national series, only private days and supersprints.

Does anyone have any websites that advertise these types of cars ?

Edited by 4DoorGTR
Rather then look at buying out of Japan, you shoudl also consider buying a prepared car out of Europe. Some good buys going around. Right now im tossing up a track only GTSt, what will stop me is my trip OS and the procurement of one of these

cb_1.JPG

:);) ;) :)

Wanna bring me one back too Troy?? :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know if you can disassemble the thing and put it backwards for different ramp rates. They're both "2 ways" or both "1.5 ways" because well, 2 ways and 1.5 ways are the same 'thing' I do not know for sure, but I believe the 38420-RSS15-B5 is the 1 way, and 38420-RSS20-B5 is the two way. In other words, I predict Nissan considers this: to be a 1.5 way. No idea what actually happens when it arrives/you disassemble it. It would be an excellent question to ask Nismo directly! I somehow doubt you will get an answer though, I feel you would be the first person to document what you encounter when you open the box and the internet would be grateful.
    • I'm going to slap an old nismo logo sticker on my spare one and sell it to the land of the free for a thousand bucks
    • lol, probably should have read further!
    • Well - they have arrived.  And they are easy on the eye to put it mildly... These only have three bolts - but for a start there is a key that fits with vacuum like precision..  And as you can see by my ruler, the interface is large..   I listened to a podcast on HP Academy about Dan (KiwiCNC) and I'm more than comfortable he knows what he is doing. R35 Bearing assembly should arrive later today so can mock that up for a look. Can't wait to get these on and get some brake pressure logging too. IMG_3860.MP4
    • I would be very confident that they are the same parts (the 2 different SKUs). It seems very clear that you can drop the cam in the 2-way opening, or in the other opening. If you arrange it in the other opening in the same way that you see any other 1-way diff, ie, with the flat of the cam up against the 1° side of the opening, then it would work as a 1-way. It can only spread the ramps when driving forwards - cannot spread the ramps on overrun. It would then appear obvious that if you put the cam into the opening "backwards", that you would get the angled flats of the cam working onto the "points" of the 1° side of the opening, which would give you ramp spread in both loading directions. I do wonder if the forward direction of the 1.5-way config is equivalent to the forward direction of the 2-way, seeing as the cams are flipped and the angled surfaces on those would need to be the same on each side - AND - clearly when installed in either the 2-way or 1-1ay configuration they are not intended to work exactly the same (the ramp angles on the 2-way are 10° different between forward and backward, and the ramp doesn't exist in the 1-way config). 'twere me, I think I would rather actually have a set of rings that offered the 2-way with two different sets of ramp angles, say the 55/45 of the existing design and maybe a 45/37.5 combo for a less aggressive effect), AND another set of rings with a dedicated 1.5-way opening and a dedicated 1-way opening. The 1.5-way opening would actually have the steeper angle on the overdrive side that causes it to be less pushy than the forward drive angle, like you see in many other diffs. But really - if this Nismo thing is thought out properly and all those surfaces work on each other the way that they need to, who am I to argue?
×
×
  • Create New...