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Thats exactly the layout ive got in mine (except with one sub), I spoke to my contact at Autobahn theyre roughly 280 but if there's a few interested in purchasing at the same time a group buy maybe possible to bring the price down fractionally. They are a straight bolt in box no modds required (except your choice of how to mount the box). I took a photo of it the other day so if anyone whats a look let me know and I will send it to you. And for FRX's comment, take it from me first hand I used to have the sub mounted in a $40 regular box firing into the cabin and it was ok but found it was very muffled and had to drive it really hard to get the bass volume i desired, but the moment I put the new box in, I had to redo my entire sound freq settings and turn the sub right down. Now it sounds really quick, tight, clean and not over drivin

frx thankyou for your response I really appreciate it.

This is probably going to cause a lot of argument, but I have drawn a boot schematic, which depicts the best layout for subwoofers in a r33...

r33bootlayoutlm9.png

This is my interpretation of what you are trying to say frx.

I would advise against this design....never face subs towards each other, will sound like shit. The sound waves hit each other and canel each other out giving you a crap sounding bass.

R33's dont have a very big interior, 1x12 will sound awesome.

i prefer 2x10's, nice tight bass and quick response time for listening to drum n bass, dance etc.

And anyway, who wants to be one of those tools who drives down the road, whole car rattling and all you can hear is bass. DUnno about you, but i like hearing the music aswell.

Edited by skyliner86

Leadfoot: I now see what you mean by the bad seal...

I went and ripped my back seat out last night, to install a 12" and amp... Man, what a shocking seal!!!

I'm running my 12" firing directly at the boot lid (Towards the tail lights). I can't test firing across the car, as my box is too wide. But I had this exact same amp/sub in my commodore, when I put it in the skyline, I had to run the sub on minimum on the headunit AND turn the amp down...

It's so much of a nicer sound in the R33...

A single 12" will be perfect in the car, even with the seat in there!

i just bought a setup that sits 2 12" alpine type S subs facing into the boot top (standing vert) in a sealed box the Alpine required size for the 2 subs to work optimally. I don't know how u guys are getting 2 subs in the corners with the right size enclosures and still having boot space? I would have thought it would simply be far too small for the subs.

I am not knocking this setup, I don't know jack about car audio just trying to find out more about why such different size boxes for the subs are often recommended/.

I just finished installing a 12" Sub into my R33. I thought I'd add to this post rather than make a new one and show you can keep you boot space and have an ok looking box.

I am definitely no audio expert and I didn't ever think I'd use a sub but felt I was lacking the lows notes in music. I try to go for function over form so with my amp and sub install I wanted to keep as much boot space as possible but wanted it to look decent.

I fibreglassed up a box after looking at many tutorials and references and talking the guy at my local audio store (Travis - Stylyn Moorabbin).

I got a drawing out of the following thread for the amp bracket which I had to modify the dimensions of to suit my amp - Thanks MintR33!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...13677&st=20

The carpet I ended up with doesn't suit perfectly but it'll do, I may get the rest of the boot trim done?

So far I haven't really touched the gain and crossover settings but it sounds much better than before.

post-13456-1161508463.jpg post-13456-1161508481.jpg post-13456-1161508498.jpg

Edited by Fry_33
  • 2 weeks later...
I just finished installing a 12" Sub into my R33. I thought I'd add to this post rather than make a new one and show you can keep you boot space and have an ok looking box.

I am definitely no audio expert and I didn't ever think I'd use a sub but felt I was lacking the lows notes in music. I try to go for function over form so with my amp and sub install I wanted to keep as much boot space as possible but wanted it to look decent.

I fibreglassed up a box after looking at many tutorials and references and talking the guy at my local audio store (Travis - Stylyn Moorabbin).

I got a drawing out of the following thread for the amp bracket which I had to modify the dimensions of to suit my amp - Thanks MintR33!

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...13677&st=20

The carpet I ended up with doesn't suit perfectly but it'll do, I may get the rest of the boot trim done?

So far I haven't really touched the gain and crossover settings but it sounds much better than before.

post-13456-1161508463.jpg post-13456-1161508481.jpg post-13456-1161508498.jpg

That looks really good, is the box to the specified volume though? I was thinking of the same setup, although I thought I would need to utilise the space of the rear quarters behind the factory crapet panel as well as into the boot.

That looks really good, is the box to the specified volume though? I was thinking of the same setup, although I thought I would need to utilise the space of the rear quarters behind the factory crapet panel as well as into the boot.

I didn't end up testing the volume of it as it seemed approx correct. Optimum sealed size recommended is 1.25 cu ft, got told that wouldn't even have probs with 1cu.ft. So far it sounds fine, I'd doubt I'd be able to tell any difference. My thought was to make it about what I thought it should be, a little bigger even, and if it sounded bad then I could always add things into the box to decrease it's size. If an enclosure is water tight/proof then you can fill it with water to test how big it is in litres or use packing peanuts in the same way (preferred). Don't be too worried about space as 1cu.ft is only a 30.5cm square, it really isn't that big. It is easier to finish to the existing trim than removeing it and trying to make an enclosure while also trying to recover what is now exposed.

Edited by Fry_33
I didn't end up testing the volume of it as it seemed approx correct. Optimum sealed size recommended is 1.25 cu ft, got told that wouldn't even have probs with 1cu.ft. So far it sounds fine, I'd doubt I'd be able to tell any difference. My thought was to make it about what I thought it should be, a little bigger even, and if it sounded bad then I could always add things into the box to decrease it's size. If an enclosure is water tight/proof then you can fill it with water to test how big it is in litres or use packing peanuts in the same way (preferred). Don't be too worried about space as 1cu.ft is only a 30.5cm square, it really isn't that big. It is easier to finish to the existing trim than removeing it and trying to make an enclosure while also trying to recover what is now exposed.

ok, I had fusion powerplants which I plan to put in my 33, and they require a ported box with around 50L volume or about 1.5cu.ft, plus a 4" diameter, 15" long port, Ive experimented alot when it was in my old run-around car, and I found it definatly needed the port and the bigger the box was the better. Looks like I have a bit of stuffing around ahead of me!

Once again yours looks really good, could you please post up links to the tutorials you used to do it, Ive done a thousand boot installs but never delved into fibreglass, I think doing the glassing wouldnt be too complex, but I just cant see how you cant get the carpet to stick the way it does to all those curves on the box... hence why I need some tutorials...

Sorry for the late reply but it took longer than i thought to put it all back in and get a photo, but here it is all done by myself wit my old lady doing the stichin on the box itself, cheers

3 alpine type s 12's running off the big alpine monoblock and the other v12 4 channel powering my fronts

post-9561-1163045887.jpgpost-9561-1163045914.jpg

  • 1 month later...

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