Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok. The said RB25DET takes pride of place between the strut towers of a 97 Stagea. Car was originally designed to be all show no go, but... stuff it. Lets go.

Im sure we've all sat down to figure what the best bang for buck performance upgrades would be.

Exhaust. - 3" turbo back. Probably a BATMBL or BOs Important dump, 4" (?) highflow cat., resonator for 3-4000rpm, cannon muffler, something with a decent note.

FMIC. - 600x300x76, with 2.5" Aluminium piping, Through GKTech.

Highflowed standard turbo. (would sell my working turbo, and buy a highflow.) Had my eyes on yours, alex- I knowll you'll be reading this.

Computer (not sure whether to go piggyback or full replacement)

Should i be upgrading injectors?

AFM? A Z32...?

Cams? Ive heard good things about Tomei Poncams. Adjustable cam gears....? just the exhaust, apparently...

Do i NEED a pod filter, or would a K&N panel in the factory box be adequate?

Does a CAI make a difference on an intercooled engine, seeing as the air is just going to get heated passing though the turbo anyway? Id like to keep the inlet tract as straight and short as possible.

post-24895-1158500678.jpg

For $5000 (give or take $1k) what would be the best upgrades? needless to say, slotted rotors and S2 calipers with greenstuff pads are on the way...

Hope i get some decent answers, ill leave you guys with it.

upgrade your brakes before you make it go any faster

ok thx read the post bwud.

Power Fc + Z32 AFM + Injectors

Theres approx $2500 gone

They arent exactly the first things you would do though, are they.... no...

I had looked at power fc's, and have used one with the commander unit in a 180SX, i like the thought of being able to make modifications on the fly, with the knock sensor etc, injector load readout and so on, but dont think they have one for the RB25DET auto...

first things would be intake (cooler/airbox and cai) then exhaust. beyond that the stock RB25 ecu is dodgy so some type of fuel/ignition controller at minimum is required, so pfc with z32 afm (if it can work with the auto) or perhaps a safcII/ITC combo. upgraded fuel pump is generally a good idea at this time too.

there are no suitable stand alone ecu's for nissan auto

So the best bet would be a piggyback system or similar? most places ive spoken to have changed the subject fairly quickly when it comes to the ecu, which is why i thought id post here. and they all had different ideas of what i should do first, which is what im after.

Say someone said "heres $5000 to spend on your engine". what would you do to it?

turbo back exhaust $800

generic intercooler kit $450

cai set up $300?!

bosch/walbro fuel pump $250

SAFCII/S-ITC $500

DBA slotted rotors $400

GCG Hiflow/2nd hnd HKS turbo (low mount, ie GT2535) $1500

turbo timer $100

EBC $400

Thats $4700, then add tuning on top of that, $2-300 maybe?!

thats a quick list, hope it helps.

Edited by _8OO5TED_

the problem is that auto gear logic is in the main nissan ecu and all stand alone engine management systems for nissan are manual, so it will be harsh the auto box. you need a piggyback system

I think the lack of Power FC for nissan autos is simply cos there isnt a big enough market. Most people modify manual vehicles. They may be thinking they wouldnt sell enough to be worth the research and developement? Ive read in the stagea forum that there may be something in the works, but i assume it would come at a premium.

What is a good piggyback system to use? GReddy e-manage or something? computers are one of many things in my "not my strong point" category...

ok, well if you go the BOS dump and cat, then a cat back 3" system you are looking at about $1000-$1500 for that.

then $400 for a cheap cooler.

anywere from about $1000-$2000 for a turbo.

for the ecu you have a few options. they all work out to be about the same money. they are a greddy emanage ultimate, pfc or safc2/sitc combo. for any piggy system you'd really want a remapped ecu to base it on so that you don't have rich and retard mode. that setup will give you the best driveability as it should be close to the standard gear change (unless it was altered in the remap). then using the safc2 you can alter the amount of fuel going in, and run a z32 afm.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...