Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all selling some parts left over from my conversion...

LOCATION: BRISBANE

*****

Please make an offer if you feel i have misjudged an items value, if your keen to buy, then i'm keen to sell

*****

All parts sold as is - as pictured

It all came from a front cut of r32 with 87kms on it (log books to prove!!), most stuff looks and feels in pretty good condition, though i can't really test alot of things because i never drove it. I can arrange postage if required at buyers expense. No suspension/brakes/panels/lights available, sorry.

post-30449-1158761345.jpg

Gearbox crossmember (no rubber mount) and

Engine Mounts (one mount rubber is

no good, the other is destined to end

up that way), but the metal brackets

are fine. $120 ono

post-30449-1158761371.jpg

Speedo with 87kms on it - perfect condition $120 ono

post-30449-1158761328.jpg

Dashboard (no cracks in middle vents,

some vinyl lifting up around passenger

side, 2 cracked fins in front demister, no

other signs of damage/aging) $100 ono

Other Parts available:

AC Blower fan $30

Steering column $30

Steering Rack $80

Brake Booster $40

Clutch Master Cylinder $50

Accelerator Pedal $10

Wiper motor $10

Wipers $10

Fuse box $10

Air Conditioning pump $50

Original Log Books $20

Climate Control Screen $20 (no surround for face, just the unit itself)

Stock intercooler + piping $60

some cables, hoses, stuff like that from $1 ono!

and more stuff..

The whole remaining FRONT CUT (remember i took the motor/ecu/tranny), including everything above $300 (ono), pickup.

Other little bits of pieces that may be of use to some of you, pm me to ask about anything or call me on 0422 933 217.

Chris.

Edited by kristafa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/135234-r32-parts-for-sale/
Share on other sites

Hi Chris,

I'm interested in the Crossmember..

Will you take $100 pick up?

PM SENT

RE: LOG Books - i'll find out how much to post and decide from there.

thanks for your enquiries.

PM SENT

RE: LOG Books - i'll find out how much to post and decide from there.

thanks for your enquiries.

Is this an Engine Crossmember or Gearbox Crossmember?

It looks to be a Gearbox Crossmember..

NV N01: yes this is the gearbox crossmember pictured, but also have available the steering rack/crossmember assembly which the engine mounts bolt to.

ReQuieM: Thanks dont need calipers.

do u have driver side door window seal.. its the rubber bits on either side of the door glass and it black.. need full length one

sorry front cuts only have from the A pillar forward, cut through just behind the end of the tranny.

will ya take 80 for the speedo

PM SENT

Pedal box isn't complete anymore, since sold the brake pedal (pedal only)- apart from that i have everything that comprises a pedal box. pm me if ur still interested. chris.

It's probably a long shot, but i'm after the collar that goes around the gearbox on the transmission tunnel. any chance you'd be willing to cut it out with an angle grinder and send it my way?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...