Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey pretty new to this turbo stuff

ive just purchased a s13 silvia $1500 with rego!!

and just brought 1995 series (1.5 i think they said??) series 1 panels but series 2 engine? rb25det auto front for the conversion

i want to get about 300rwkw

i want to do this as safe as possible and cheap as possible i dont particuly want to rebuild the engine,

but will do cams and stuff if that is what is reccomended.

so just want to know what you guys reccomend

1. ecu as i have heard power fc no good for auto /boost controller or any other electrical item ill need?

2. modifications to auto box?

3. turbo, manifold, waste gate, dump pipe, screamer.

4. exhaust system,

5. intercooler

6. engine like parts inside ect cams, valve spring anything else

7. fuel pump, injecters.

just want to know what to get and what to stay away from like ive heard ebay manifolds not to bad but turbos r shit?

and a price would help as well has where there best price is available from ect sponser on here or of another website or just ebay ect

thanks for your help in advance

and if it was a $1500 silvia, all the money that it will take to get the car tidy.

just wondering, was the car registered? or was it uncomplied? if it was uncomplied and you are planning on registering it, you may want to sell the car and start over.

what auto box is it? the r33 one?

if so its electronic which will mean most ecu's aren't suitable as they are manual only ecu's

yes to run the std auto box. as the car is quater mile warrior only and driven on weekends

he means 'most ecu's aren't suitable'.

and i hope you have a healthy bank balance, and really really good tyres.

bank acc average want to get away for about $7,000

goodluck with it, i think u'll need around 15k to achieve that, depending who does the work etc.

ill do the work my self but there will be some work that ill have to get others to do like tuning and fitting the ecu i hate wiring

Whats the budget?

about $7,000 on engine cause the car cost me $1500 + half cut + s15 seats + R33 front n rear brakes setup and hubs, xr6 turbo wheels, s14 controll arm $3600

so then so far car owes me $5,100

want it finished for $15,000

Hold on, you bought an S13 for $1500? What sort of condition is it in? Got pics by any chance?

Cheers

+ The money for suspension & braking

ive allowed for $1000 for new suspension ive got std r33 brakes already, i just want to know will the std drive shaft handle it or should i get a r32 gtr rear cradle for the diff center and drive shaft as they are bigger stronger items?

and if it was a $1500 silvia, all the money that it will take to get the car tidy.

car has one dint on it!!

just wondering, was the car registered? or was it uncomplied? if it was uncomplied and you are planning on registering it, you may want to sell the car and start over.

car is registered until nov, its complied! when i brought it was ca18de auto with bottom end knock.

there is no way you could get 300rwkw for $7500. Computer, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, manifold, tune, exhaust, intercooler. And that isn't even including putting the motor in. Are you putting the motor in yourself? cause if your not you are going to pay quite a bit to get the motor in wired and running. if you are getting someone to put the motor and do the 5 stud conversion i would atleast budget 5 grand cause you are going to need custom tailshaft, custom gearbox crossmember, exhasut front mout. So that leaves you $2,500 which will get you a computer injectors and fuel pump. That will give you around the 180-190rwkw with an auto.

^^ agreed.

Absolutely no chance 300rwkw with 7.5k

ECU/Tuned - $1500

Dump/Exhaust - $1000

Injectors - $900

AFM - $300

Fuel pump - $250

Turbo - $2000

Manifold (not essential) - $1500

I/C + piping etc - $900

Cams (might be needed) - $900

Clutch - $1200

Diff - $800

$8650 - excluding cams/manifold, which is then $11,250

And thats NOT including the rebuild when the motor pops, which it will sooner or later so you need to allocate - $7000

Total including a motor - $18,2500 with everything, and thats just the motor and a couple of drivetrain bits...

If you set the goal to 250rwkw, you wont need a rebuild, but its still gonna cost you more than your budget is gonna allow.

And thats not including the auto rebuild, trans coolers etc etc which is gonna top out another 2-3k

I think you really should have investigated the costs of things before aiming for the sky :happy:

Performance, let alone 300rwkw... costs money dude

or for $5000 i know where there is a 12 second car. people at jamboree would've seen it. blue sigma with a stock sr20 in it (with a slightly shagged turbo). it ran a 12.9. it has run a 12.56. and there is plently left in it as its still on the stock turbo (at 15psi)

hey pretty new to this turbo stuff

ive just purchased a s13 silvia $1500 with rego!!

and just brought 1995 series (1.5 i think they said??) series 1 panels but series 2 engine? rb25det auto front for the conversion

i want to get about 300rwkw

i want to do this as safe as possible and cheap as possible i dont particuly want to rebuild the engine,

but will do cams and stuff if that is what is reccomended.

so just want to know what you guys reccomend

1. ecu as i have heard power fc no good for auto /boost controller or any other electrical item ill need?

2. modifications to auto box?

3. turbo, manifold, waste gate, dump pipe, screamer.

4. exhaust system,

5. intercooler

6. engine like parts inside ect cams, valve spring anything else

7. fuel pump, injecters.

just want to know what to get and what to stay away from like ive heard ebay manifolds not to bad but turbos r shit?

and a price would help as well has where there best price is available from ect sponser on here or of another website or just ebay ect

thanks for your help in advance

if this car is for drag use forget moddin the skyline auto box just go ti the wreakers and buy a trimatic and get it built up (as u can get bellhousings to suit rb engines ) than u can run what ever ecu u like

and i hope u got deep pockets to do this type of conversion as i do rb conversions into silvias i know what u have to do to get the motor in but as its only goin to be a drag car u dont have to worry about transport rules just andra rules

agreed, go the vl turbo auto box. jatco 3 speed im pretty sure

its a mech box so no need to worry about what ecu to use

sorry u gettin confused the trimatic is found in the vb-vk commodore geminis etc but u can buy a bellhousing to suit the rb range go full manual valve body etc

vl box has a ecu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...