Jump to content
SAU Community

Adjusting Suspension For Racing

R3sp3ct

By R3sp3ct,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

R3sp3ct Experienced

R3sp3ct

Posted
Posted

allo

Ill be going to wakefield on the 21st and i am really going to give it a good hard go. What i was wondering is what is the best height for my coilovers to be to get the best out of my handling. Should they be as low as possible or in between? i have no idea.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/136060-adjusting-suspension-for-racing/
Share on other sites
leech_ Grand Master

leech_

Posted
Posted

i am no expert by any means but i have always heard that lowering to much can actually make the handeling worse. I suggest you search in the suspension thread and maybe even pm frink as he is pretty cluey on this stuff ;)

May be worth paying a visit to chris @ inline.

allo

Ill be going to wakefield on the 21st and i am really going to give it a good hard go. What i was wondering is what is the best height for my coilovers to be to get the best out of my handling. Should they be as low as possible or in between? i have no idea.

Cheers

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted

What brand are they? are they dampening adjustable? do you have a camber castor kit?

simply lowering the height of your car won't give you 'great handling'. you'd also have to play with the dampeners, camber angles, spring rates, toe angle and sway bar settings.... sound like its too much? do a quick search in the suspension and brakes threads and you'll find more than enough info to help you out.... ;)

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted
i am no expert by any means but i have always heard that lowering to much can actually make the handeling worse.

This is true. by simply lowering your springs, yes you may have lowered the centre of gravity of your vechicle, but you've actually increased the 'roll centre' of the car. basically, you've induced more body roll. however, this does really only apply to cut or lowered springs on standard 'type' shocks. having coliovers, this really shouldnt affect you that much....

R3sp3ct Experienced

R3sp3ct

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Its got a full suspension set up, HKS rear and GABS front coilovers, im not to sure what of the brands of everything else but it has camber angles, toe angle and sway bars. Its got the lot just dont know what to do with it.

Frink Veteran

Frink

Posted
Posted (edited)

if your not sure, then take it to someone who does know what they are doing. i never make my own adjustments cause i dont have a way of accurately measuring how much adjustment i make. if you play with it and get it wrong, your car will handle poorly and your tyres will wear very unevenly....

Edited by Frink
R3sp3ct Experienced

R3sp3ct

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Tuning - Autotech in Fyshwick.

or Travel to CRD in Sydney

Yeah i called them today but they seemed a little steep to what i had been told it should cost from a few people, but the amount of power he was stating he'd get me it was worth it.

Edited by R3sp3ct
tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Ed can only get power out of your vehicle if you have the mods that let him. he or nobody can get power out if you don't have the mods.

Roughly:

Bog stock = 140160 or so they quote.

std turbo, fmic, pod, exhaust, z32 = 180- 190rwkw

above plus 555 injectors and fuel pump = 200 - 210rwkw

above plus ex cam pulley, power fc and GCG hiflow = 220 - 240rwkw

above plus cams = 250 - 270rwkw.

above plus turbo gtrs/2835proS/apexi53b70 etc = 260 - 280rwkw.

Then start looking at engine internals.

And most tuners can get these figures if you spend $$$ and supply the hardware.

Don't know if this helps or is what your looking at. Plus there are more than several ways to approach the whole performance thing, safc, haltech, other turbo's etc etc and each person has their own idea about what is the best way to do it.

All it takes is $$$$ The definition of being poor = owning a Skyline...lol.

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

And adjusting suspension - forget it, stick to what you know and are used to you'll do better, until you begin realising its limitations after several meets.

Its no easy thing resetting your suspension and maintaining your wheel alignment. Every time you lower or raise your car your camber will change and you could wear out the inside/outside of your tyres unless you get a wheel alignment each time to reset it all [inside when lowered, outside when raised usually].

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...