Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmm well not much to report, but i'm back from Japan, and i have some new found inspiration from the DMAX ceffy!

also fitted

KTS traction rods

VS-ONE rear pillar brace

strobies in reverse lights

did a little more cleaning (FUN)

got tomei cam gears aswell and Gates racing timing belt to get fitted. Also got a couple other little things that will set the car off. New look coming in the next few months :)

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 176
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well new belt and cam gears fitted up, did G1 round 3 - good result qualifying in top 16 - drew christian pickering first round, he beat me 6-4, 6-4 on the two runs...

with only doing 2 rounds of the 3 round series, i ended up 16th for South Australia G1 Championships. ;)

The car is now gonna get pulled down again and freshened up... should look HOT!!!!

Also going to upgrade the turbo again (power hungry lol) so the hks gt2540 is now for sale - its been running on 1.2 bar at the moment (around 220rwkw). click link for details :thumbsup:

More updates later, as things start to happen

I've got some other bits for sale, and will update bits for sale as i find them. As i'm gonna do a shed clearout of all my bits and pieces.

Here's a pic from G1

post-9092-1192269102_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE

cars been pulled to pieces, new turbo should be here this week, gotta finish of sanding it all and then off it goes to get piping done and paint sprayed >_<

hoping for it to be done by the end of the year. you may or may NOT recognise it as the same car... lol. ;)

  • 1 month later...

well with help from my fellow FULL TUNE members, and SIMON from MORPOWA - i've been slowly getting this thing done.

there's 2 major mods going on at the moment, exterior and power.

only going to go into detail about the power side of it for now and unveil pics once car is all finished.

POWER

well the hks2540 is long gone, and 1400r sourced me a dmax manifold from japan which is now on the car. I also got myself a Garrett GT3076r IW with the .6 front and 56trim wheel with .63 exhaust housing from SIMON at MORPOWA he also modified the wastegate to have a larger port and also larger flap. Coming off the back of this is an awesome screamer dump / front pipe with flex join from AM PERFORMANCE here in Adelaide. I modified my intake pipe which i had on the previous setup to suit this turbo, its not perfect but it will be more than sufficient for the job.

still have to fit the nismo adjustable fuel pressure reg that i've got, but that is a simple bolt on item.

I am nearly at the point of starting the engine and hearing this thing run again, but i'm still waiting on the return of my I/C pipe modded, hose for oil drain - then all sorted.

260+ is the goal for this setup by what boost... now that is the question...but i will find out soon enough.

EXTERIOR

i have a 'few' more new things which will make the car stand out and make it more individual over other ceffy's, including other pieces from other cars which have been modified to suit... more on that when its all finished though!

i will put up a pic of how the car looks at the moment though.

cheers

-Matt

post-9092-1198231176_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1198231206_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1198231229_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1198231241_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1198231258_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1198231271_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1198231283_thumb.jpg

Edited by huddy

well paint colour should be revealed soon :thumbsup:

ultimately i would like 280+rwkw, but i do have gtr injectors with fuel reg, so unsure if i have enough fuel from this and also walbro intank pump.

also skeptical on the whole setup as its on a rb20 based engine.

should find out in the next month or so :D

  • 3 weeks later...

well... it runs!!

slight problem, need to modify the awesome front/dump as it is a little low :P

but other than that, it was good to start the engine in about 2months (or more)!!!

hopefully i'll get a tune next week, just have to get the dump/front modified again first.

got the GT3076r fitted up (with the wastegate ported out and larger flap fitted)

DMAX stainless manifold fitted (welded on extra gusset) (+ nissan ex mani gasket)

AM Performance Stainless screamer front/dump *TUFF AS*

new braided oil feed line and water lines, re-sleeved with heat sleeving

ally intake pipe was modified to suit with 4"-3" reducer

also fitted a nismo adjustable FPR

enjoy the pics.

post-9092-1200472352_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1200472366_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1200472384_thumb.jpg

post-9092-1200472399_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...